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Quick bites: breaking bread in Uzbekistan
Uzbeks still consider Samarkand non — with its dark crust and bagel-like consistency — to be the best, and discs of it travel long-distance today to the Uzbek diaspora living around the world, carried in the luggage of visiting relatives.

Head chef Robert Panak will use a traditional tandoor oven to get results close to the original. We use a strong flour and Moul-Bie blanche T55 [baguette flour] in order to achieve a crisp ring with a fluffy texture on the inside. We also cut the dough while still in the mixer to add extra air, in the traditional Uzbek way.

You’ll find that in Uzbekistan, non accompanies every meal, and different cities and provinces have their own variations. At the Chorsu Bazaar in the capital, Tashkent, babushki (old women) sell their non from vintage prams. Compared with Samarkand non, Tashkent non is lighter and softer; In Khiva, 600 miles away, it is crispier and thinner.

To make non, the nonvoy (baker) rolls the dough flat and stamps it with a chekish (a special tool with long metal teeth). The dough is then brushed with an oil, egg or milk wash and sprinkled with sesame or onion seeds before being slapped on the curved walls of a red-hot clay tandoor oven.

Ancient traditions still surround non: it is never placed face down or cut with a knife (it is only torn by hand). At weddings, the bride and groom both take a bite of non and then finish it the next day as a married couple. If a man goes away, for army service or to study, his family will get him to take a bite of non and then hang the bread on the wall until his return. It’s the same for the many Uzbeks who travel to Russia for work today. They know that when they return, the non they took a bite from will be waiting for them.
food  stans  travel  tradition  moi  asia  silkroad  history  restaurant  bread  home  recette 
august 2016 by aries1988
A breadwinner from Senegal masters the crusty Paris baguette - FT.com
The best baguette in Paris can officially be found at Le Grenier à Pain, a bakery in Montmartre, the hilly area that was once a refuge for Impressionists. The bread’s crust is deep gold and crisp; its inside, riddled with irregular holes, melts
story  france  food  work  immigrant  paris  bread 
november 2015 by aries1988
Let them eat cake: Paris suffers baguette ‘shortage’ - FT.com
Previously, bakers would be informed by the city’s administrative authority which weeks they could take off, a system that ensured every area had an artisanal baker open nearby over the slow summer months, to serve the French habit of buying freshly baked bread on a daily basis. A 1998 law still in place states that to be called a boulangerie in France, the dough has to be kneaded, shaped and baked on the premises. The price of bread was fixed until as late as 1986. “Political legitimacy has long come from feeding the people, but in France this has always been symbolised by ensuring the supply of bread,” said Steven Kaplan, a Cornell University professor of history and author of several books on French bread.
life  bread  government  français 
august 2015 by aries1988
A Growing Challenge for Germans Who Live by Bread Alone

For now, it seems, they have all but forgotten. Industrial-scale baking and advanced freezing technology have made it possible for mass-produced loaves, rolls and pastries to be frozen and shipped around the country to supermarkets, where they can be heated up and sold for a fraction of the price of a hand-thrown equivalent from a traditional bakery.
deutschland  deutsch  bread  artisan  bakery  crisis  recette  today  history  food  germany 
june 2014 by aries1988

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