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aries1988 : chef   6

Anthony Bourdain’s Moveable Feast

He fell for Hanoi long before he actually travelled there, when he read Graham Greene’s 1955 novel, The Quiet American, and the city has retained a thick atmosphere of colonial decay—dingy villas, lugubrious banyan trees, monsoon clouds, and afternoon cocktails—that Bourdain savors without apology.

Bourdain believes that the age of the fifteen-course tasting menu is over. He is an evangelist for street food, and Hanoi excels at open-air cooking.

The restaurant’s specialty is bún chả: springy white noodles, smoky sausage, and charred pork belly served in a sweet and pungent broth.

I won’t eat in a restaurant with filthy bathrooms, Bourdain warned. They let you see the bathrooms. If the restaurant can’t be bothered to replace the puck in the urinal or keep the toilets and floors clean, then just imagine what their refrigeration and work spaces look like.

If Bourdain’s show offers a vicarious taste of an intrepid culinary expedition, the market will provide an ersatz consumer experience of his show.

With his chopsticks, he gestured toward a bowl of kimchi between us. Americans want kimchi. They want it on their hamburgers. It’s like when Americans started eating sushi—a huge tectonic shift. The new frontier for American tastes is fermentation, Bourdain continued. That funk. That corruption of the flesh. That’s exactly the flavor zone that we’re all moving toward.

I don’t know anybody who is more a man of the twenty-first century, Richman told me. The way he acts. The way he speaks. His insanity. His vulgarity.

the only way to see Hanoi was on the back of a scooter: To be anonymous, another helmeted figure in the middle of a million little dramas and comedies happening on a million bikes moving through this amazing city—every second is pure joy.
gourmet  vietnam  story  tv  21C  chef  street  food 
december 2017 by aries1988

一開始,Gaston Acurio也是這麼想的,所以剛從巴黎回來的他最早做的是法國菜。不過做了一兩年之後,他就不甘心了,因為他知道秘魯是個文化上非常多元的地方,從意大利到中國,各地移民帶來的烹飪傳統早已融入本土,為甚麼他就不能把自己從小吃到大的那些菜式混進精緻高級的法國菜裏頭呢?更讓他不服的是食材,明明自己的國家就有數不盡的好東西,為甚麼要綁住自己的手腳,放着那麼多秘魯人都認不全的蔬果不用,卻要遷就法國飲食的傳統限制材料的範圍?於是他一點點地把黃辣椒加進自己的創作,甚至將「秘魯魚生」放進菜單,代替原有的魚肉Mousse。

他和一般的明星廚師不同,他是個有使命感的人。於是他發起運動,與全國各地的農夫漁民合辦大展,向國民展示秘魯食材的風貌。他和大學合作,研究更好更環保的種植方式,探索工業化捕魚對海洋生態的影響。更重要的是他辦學校,引入自己當年在藍帶學到的訓練系統,教導學生更精細更科學的廚藝知識。他教出來的學生,他帶出來的廚師,不只遍佈全國,還受到世界各地的歡迎;到處都有人想開秘魯餐館,想請秘魯來的廚師,他們最後一定都會找到Gaston Acurio,以及他所主持的「少林寺」。
chef  profession  cuisine  peru  today 
february 2017 by aries1988

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