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aries1988 : gastronomy   47

中国餐馆里的菜谱为何那么相似

中国走上的为什么不是这样一条道路?原因或许在于,这样一套制度有几个互为因果的条件:依靠特定的潜在人群就能生存下去;必须有自身特色,且不能模仿、照抄他人;最终,还得把追逐更高利润作为首要动机。这些,在中国社会的土壤中都很难出现:长久以来,中国人很少有基本消费之外的花销,这使得商品或服务的提供者只靠少数受众是活不好的;人们也不讲究“专注做好自己这一块”,宫保鸡丁这样的菜式也没有注册专利,没人规定杭帮菜馆就不能烧;至于利润,当然人人喜欢,但如果一个价格敏感的社会里,很少人愿意为“特色”付高价,那就很难赚取高额利润,而又只能转向薄利多销。

这说到底,恐怕还是与中国作为一个庞大农业文明的底色有关。在一个小农社会里,分工无法像城邦社会那么明确,很多技能也都是通用的,就像我小时候家家户户都会做馒头。在这种情况下,技术门槛很低,人们又不愿意为专业技艺多花钱,彼此强化的结果,便是无法做精做深,倒是趋向广博。就像以前的江湖艺人,卖艺只为糊口,“坑蒙拐骗乞偷抢讹外加卖艺,这几样事不分主业副业,都是随时能做的兼职,赶上哪个算哪个,只要能弄到钱,能挣出果腹嚼谷,就什么都干”(秋原《乱世靡音》)。
from:rss  question  business  competition  comparison  choice  customer  gastronomy  restaurant  china  idea  chinese  intelligentsia 
7 weeks ago by aries1988
梁文道:在餐桌上抵抗到最後一刻(巴斯克的美食「底氣」之一)

他們的「畢爾包體育會」不只是皇馬和巴塞之外,唯一一支從未降級過的西甲球隊。更叫人吃驚的,是他們居然不用外援,堅持以巴斯克人組班,猶如他們自己的國家隊。
basque  gastronomy  restaurant  region  espagna 
october 2017 by aries1988
The Japanese Origins of Modern Fine Dining

the story really kicks off a few decades later, when some of Point’s disciples — most notably, Paul Bocuse — create nouvelle cuisine. Propelled by the hunger for change in post-1968 France, not to mention its own trio of hype men in the form of André Gayot, Christian Millau, and Henri Gault, this new generation of French chefs exploded the remaining French culinary orthodoxies by introducing light sauces, minimal cooking times, and more artful presentation.

before it appeared suddenly and decisively in France in the 1960s. A great deal of nouvelle cuisine’s innovations, in fact, paralleled classical aspects of Japanese dining, especially the movement’s emphasis on shorter cooking times; minimalist, playful plating; and a focus on extracting the essential aspects of an ingredient, rather than transforming it.

Kaiseki is most easily defined as Japanese haute cuisine, but like many translations, that equivalence leaves out key context. For one, while European haute cuisine descended from royal court banquets, kaiseki’s cultural legacy is tied both to the dining habits of the elite and to the Zen Buddhist tradition of the tea ceremony, which highlighted the rustic and the seasonal as a meditation on impermanence. Niki Nakayama, a classically trained kaiseki chef who is currently exploring the idea of Californian kaiseki at her Los Angeles restaurant N/Naka, describes it simply, as the most formal way of dining in Japan. In her telling, the tea ceremony included food that was simple, vegan, and could be served as a snack; later, the cuisine evolved into a celebratory meal for samurai.

At L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges, Paul Bocuse serves a dish that’s an homage to his mentor — a fillet of white fish that’s swimming in a yellow-beige sauce and served on a white plate that perfectly evokes the classic dishes of the mid-20th century — and that would never be served on a high-end menu today. At the same restaurant, Bocuse also serves a fish dish of his own invention, featuring a fillet of red mullet covered in potato “scales,” with an artful arrangement of sauce in a leaf-shaped counterpoint. The leap, from white food with white sauce on a white plate to more visual evocation, was made in less than a generation.
gastronomy  français  japanese  cuisine  origin 
october 2017 by aries1988
梁文道:燒烤是一種煉金術(美食從街坊開始之二)

遠在西班牙北海岸巴斯克地區,夾在聖塞巴斯蒂安與畢爾包兩座城市當中,深藏山嶺群翠之間的「Asador Etxebarri」,自然不會在這一點上叫人失望。特別是到了十五道菜套餐的尾聲,一份大得足夠兩、三人分享的T骨扒上桌的時候。「加利西亞牛肉」(Galician beef)本來就是西班牙的驕傲,世上最好的牛肉之一。再經過三個多禮拜的熟成,脂肪和肉質已經陳化到恰到好處的狀態。然後配上「Asador Etxebarri」精準到無人可以匹敵的火候控制,整盤肉的表皮呈現出完全的焦黑,差一點就是不能吃的地步;從已經切成條狀的肉塊間隙看去,卻是鮮紅粉嫩,差一點就是生肉,這份牛扒多汁而堪咀嚼,肉味真實,鹹香澎湃,有早已飽得不行的人把它全部啃淨,也有到了此處單點此味的地方食客,無不許為當世第一。
food  basque  gastronomy  travel  idea 
september 2017 by aries1988
梁文道:你吃不到的名廚(重新發明巴斯克菜的人之一)

很奇怪,這家酒店的中國豪客不多,彷彿停在了上個世紀的八、九十年代,亞洲面孔多半來自日本,大堂裏總是一些有點年紀,穿著考究的日本人。事實上,整片巴斯克區域的中國遊客都相對地少,不像名勝景點處處的西班牙南部,和巴塞羅拿與馬德里那些大城市。走到哪兒都聽得見普通話。我猜是日本人對西式飲食乃至於西班牙料理比較熟悉的緣故吧,大家不遠千里來到巴斯克,最大的目的之一就是吃,所以你很容易在好幾家當地食肆裏頭碰到同一撥日本人,都是來集郵的。
basque  restaurant  gastronomy 
june 2017 by aries1988
Lunch with M.

Conceived in France at the beginning of the last century, the Michelin guide today has editions in twenty-three countries and is one of the best-selling restaurant guides in the world. It operates on the principle that only reviews by anonymous, professionally trained experts can be trusted for accurate assessments of a restaurant’s food and service.

Only twenty-six three-star restaurants exist in France, and only eighty-one in the world.

Since coming to America, Michelin has learned that its brand of Gallic opacity and unapologetic gastronomic élitism has been a tougher sell here than it was in Europe or Asia.

I asked Maxime how she chooses what to order.

You’re looking for something that really tests a number of quality ingredients and then something that’s a little complex, because you want to see what the kitchen can do, she said. We would never order something like a salad. We rarely order soup.

Automobiles were still a rarity on roads in France. The brothers had the idea that a guidebook to hotels in the French countryside would encourage people to climb into a car (equipped with Michelin tires) and hit the open road.

the star system for ranking food, with one star denoting a very good restaurant in its class; two stars excellent cooking, worth a detour; and three stars exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey.

The French chef Paul Bocuse, who helped create nouvelle cuisine in the nineteen-sixties, and whose restaurant near Lyons has held a three-star Michelin ranking for a record forty-five years, has said, Michelin is the only guide that counts.

criticisms often levelled against Michelin: that its approach to restaurants and food is too wedded to an ideal of formal, technical accuracy that is not applicable to restaurants outside France.

For a restaurant like Jean Georges, filling out the reports would take two to three hours. A Chinese restaurant might take an hour.
story  français  cuisine  guide  michelin  usa  american  comparison  secrecy  gastronomy  future  expert  instapaper_favs 
january 2017 by aries1988
Fuchsia Dunlop on Chinese Food, Culture, and Travel
In peasant farming societies, you have the nose-to-tail eating. You kill the pig and you eat every part of it, for economic reasons as much as anything. Also, in China, the thing that really sets it apart is this preoccupation with the delights of gastronomy and the pursuit of the exotic.

In particular, the appreciation of texture. A lot of offal foods have very interesting textures. Like these fire-exploded kidney flowers. They have that kind of slightly brisk crispness with the tenderness of a kidney that has been cut in this beautiful, ornate, crisscross pattern and then stir-fried very fast. It’s a textural pleasure.

Try to feel it. Try to feel that slightly slithery, gelatinous quality, that little crispness in the bite. It’s like what I like to think of is edible oxymoron, this softness and crispness. Chinese love these sensory contradictions.

Sichuanese food, beyond the spicy stereotype, is about the artful mixing of flavors. It’s about fu he wei — complex, layered flavors.

n Sichuan, Sichuanese people would sum up the cuisine as saying yi cai yi ge, bai cai bai wei,

You’d have a dish with everything cut fine and you didn’t know what it was. Maybe it was something really outlandish. The art of cutting and the cutting of food into small pieces, the eating of shared dishes with a staple grain — rice in the south, wheat in the north — that’s the structure of a meal.

the olives tasted like Chinese medicine.

one of the principles of the cooking of the Jiangnan region, xian xian he yi, unity of fresh and salted. The use of small amounts of cured pork and intensely flavored ingredients to bring life to vegetables and more gently flavored ingredients.

Chinese food, it’s about the whole experience. That’s why you have a whole variety of flavors even in a relatively simple meal. It stimulates the palate. It also leaves you feeling very shufu.

There is a problem, this disjunct between people who are obsessed with eating, but not yet the idea that a young person might want to take over an artisanal soy sauce factory.

Trying to give people an honest living for producing what urbanites now consider to be premium, what we’d think of as organic, products. What I fervently hope is that more Chinese people will see what he’s doing is truly inspirational. As a wonderful example of how to nourish Chinese traditional culture. Make it economically viable and make it contemporarily relevant, too.

I think that’s because of the use of dairy products. You get the wonderful, umami richness of butter, the textures of cream. Chocolate, of course, is not used traditionally in China. Those things, if you take them out of Western desserts, you’re not left with very much in a way.

China has a very dynamic, open food culture and people are always into the next best thing.

They say yao shi tong yuan, the food and medicine come from the same source. Every food has its tonic properties. If you’re unwell, the first thing you do is address your diet. Food is very important in that way.
chinese  cuisine  gastronomy  region  culture  story  comparison  food  sichuan 
november 2016 by aries1988
Seoul’s street food gets classy

my favourite course is his raw beef and sour pear, served with the yolk of a quail egg and eaten on small blinis made with squid-ink powder: his twist on Gwangjang’s yukhoe, and a fitting tribute.
korea  restaurant  gastronomy  seoul 
september 2016 by aries1988
Sichuan Cuisine, Imperiled by Success
“The scene feels like it’s booming, but this is a chaotic boom that has had a lot of negatives,” he said, drawing out his vowels and emphasizing high notes in the region’s lilting accent. “Finally, they could become a sickness that brings down Sichuanese cuisine.”

Nowadays, a Sichuanese cook uses the zesty green or red local pepper, scallions, earthy fermented broad bean and chile paste, black fermented soy beans, dried tangerine peel and dozens of types of chiles (big and small, red and green, fiery and mild) prepared in several ways: fresh, dried and pickled.

These and other condiments can be combined to create dozens of flavors, many of which defy quick description in English. “Each dish its own, 100 flavors in 100 dishes,” goes the saying repeated by the chefs who fear that those tastes will vanish.
sichuan  cuisine  debate  gastronomy 
june 2016 by aries1988
汕头.南澳的4天3夜 - 败家Show - Chiphell - 分享与交流用户体验的最佳平台 - 手机版 - Powered by Discuz!
潮汕之行,南澳岛还是值得一去,虽然已经很商业化但风景不错,但公共交通不够方便推荐开车或者租车,要不寸步难行。在市区可以用嘀嘀但司机很少要等些时间才有回应。市区开车小心那些摩托车在车流中乱穿插。市区吃的还是真材实料有保证,要是可以请带上你的潮汕朋友同行去完后明白的道理,自驾游的建议第一天去 潮州-汕头-南澳的顺序由北往南, 潮汕小食很多无奈战斗力低下,时间不够。汕头的快捷酒店地方都很一般 汉庭 7天 那一些,还好潮州汉庭不错,汕头那一天晚上住的龙湖区 汉庭 体验很差,建议大家找一些大酒店住。
canton  gastronomy  boeuf  china  tourist  travel 
may 2016 by aries1988
A $1,000 Day in Tokyo for $100
Sushi? Check. Cherry blossoms? Check. But also a sprawling subway system and a baseball game.

When I returned at noon, I was treated to the best bowl of shoyu (soy sauce-based) ramen I’d ever eaten. The broth was deep, intense and slightly sweet. The accompaniments — soft-boiled egg, bamboo shoots and pork slices — were done perfectly. The basic ramen bowl at Tsuta is 950 yen — I paid a total of 1,250 for three extra slices of pork.
tokyo  japan  tourist  gastronomy  moi  ramen 
may 2016 by aries1988
Eating Japanese Philosophy
Becky Cooper eats line-caught fish and the Japanese set breakfast at Yuji Haraguchi’s Williamsburg restaurant.
gastronomy 
april 2016 by aries1988
西班牙人小心保守的秘密度假地
一个来自马德里的旅行顾问,提供了一些颠覆传统观念的建议,比如塔帕斯真的只是西班牙美食之一种;享用一顿漫长午餐;忘掉地中海,去北部只有西班牙人知道的某天堂。
espagna  gastronomy  travel 
july 2015 by aries1988
神户赏味记——Ca sento
吃完ca sento,还是忍不住有这样的疑问,一顿需要回去看详细笔记才能想起来吃了什么的饭,真的是一顿美味的饭么?如此辛苦,四个小时比上课还累,既考验自己的速记能力、记忆力、查字典速度,还要从奇怪的日式英文发音联想到原单词,顺便学习了几个法语单词,同时要让味蕾开足了马力来品尝和感受。安慰自己,希望有朝一日,对食物的了解够多够深,能够对端上来的菜一目了然,安安心心只是吃一顿饭。

然而相比路边烧烤摊的畅快淋漓、打边炉的热火朝天,Ca sento毕竟是回味无穷的,就像有人形容电影,是在同样的时间里把人生活成了两倍,这样看来,这一顿屯长的饭,真像是看了一部四小时的料理纪录片啊,尽管几年内不可能再去拜访了,但够我回味那么久了。
gastronomy  japan 
october 2014 by aries1988
L'« Asian hipster cuisine » à la conquête de Paris
A la baguette, le chef Tang Chi Keung, originaire de Hongkong, qui a quitté le restaurant cantonais de l’Hôtel Peninsula de Tokyo pour cette ouverture, la première en Europe du groupe hôtelier lui aussi originaire de l’ancienne colonie britannique. Lili rejoint le cercle très restreint des grandes tables chinoises en France. Un club qui se limite pour le moment à la capitale, où plusieurs adresses ont vu le jour récemment.

Si le premier restaurant chinois de Paris s’est installé en 1929 dans le Quartier latin (il a fermé ses portes en 2003), et que les Français consomment en masse des plats asiatiques, l’arrivée de ces établissements chics, résolument chinois, est une nouveauté. Le Shangri-La, autre palace parisien appartenant à un groupe hongkongais, avait ouvert la voie avec le Shang Palace en septembre 2011. Il est actuellement le seul restaurant chinois étoilé de France (un macaron au guide Michelin).

Ces nouvelles adresses gastronomiques sont les conséquences d’une révolution entamée il y a une dizaine d’années. Cette période a vu arriver un très grand nombre de visiteurs chinois. En 2013, la France a accueilli, 1,5 million de ces vacanciers. Et la création d’une procédure accélérée permettant d’obtenir un visa en quarante-huit heures a fait exploser les demandes de 40 %. Une clientèle à attirer, comme l’explique Gregory Lan, le directeur de Soluxe 59 : « Il y a aujourd’hui à peine cinq ou six restaurants haut de gamme proposant de la cuisine chinoise à Paris. Pourtant, les touristes venus de Pékin, Shanghaï ou Hongkong sont prêts à dépenser beaucoup d’argent ici. »

Délices de Shandong, boulevard de l’Hôpital – dans le 13e arrondissement – propose un voyage dans la province du nord-est de la Chine, à l’aide d’assiettes copieuses et servies en un éclair. Le porc fumé sauté au tofu pimenté est une merveille. A La Taverne de Zhao, rue des Vinaigriers dans le 10e arrondissement, il ne faut pas passer à côté des pains farcis à la viande, originaires de la province du Shaanxi.
paris  restaurant  chinese  travel  gastronomy 
october 2014 by aries1988
What Happens When Second Graders Are Treated to a Seven-Course, $220 Tasting Meal
Students from P.S. 295 in Brooklyn learn the fine points of French cuisine at one of New York’s poshest restaurants.
food  children  gastronomy  video 
october 2014 by aries1988
Tasting France Through 5 Signature Dishes

Clockwise from top left: bouillabaisse; choucroute garnie; cassoulet; galette; quenelle de brochet.

Brittany draws a sharp distinction between savory galettes — made of wholesome, nutty buckwheat flour — and sweet, tender dessert crepes of beau blé, or white flour. The buckwheat galettes preserve a proud tradition of self-sufficiency. In the 15th century, Duchess Anne of Brittany saved the region from famine — and ensured its independence — by introducing crops of blé noir, or buckwheat, a hardy plant that thrived despite the area’s poor soil. Though highly nutritious, buckwheat lacks gluten, which limits its uses in the kitchen; galettes are one of the few ways to consume it,

Travelers have been eating their way around France, at least, since the 1920s, when the French food writer Maurice Edmond Sailland — known by his pen name, Curnonsky — published La France Gastronomique, a multivolume guide to the country’s regional cuisine. In the decade that followed, Les Accords de Matignon — a pet project of the Popular Front, the 1930s leftist political party led by Prime Minister Léon Blum — guaranteed two weeks’ paid vacation to French workers. Working-class travelers took advantage of the new policy and government-sponsored train tickets, streaming south to resort towns previously the exclusive domain of the bourgeois. Eventually the Guide Michelin replaced Curnonsky as the primary source for travelers, and hungry motorists ignited an interest in regional cuisine that became a French passion.

Farther south, in the commune of Pleuven, stands Chez Mimi (24, rue du Moulin du Pont; 33-2-98-54-62-02; creperie-chezmimi.fr), where locals pair buckwheat galettes with the traditional accompaniment of gros lait (a house-made yogurt, thick and creamy), and schoolchildren exclaim over une bonne beurre-sucre, a simple, supple dessert crepe that contrasts the tang of salted butter with the sweet crunch of sugar.

When the French economy crashed after World War I, these formidable female cooks shifted their talents from wealthy bourgeois mansions to the city’s restaurants and bouchons, using the region’s fine ingredients to prepare simple yet perfect meals. As automobile travel grew popular, word of Lyon’s exceptional cuisine spread, helped in large part by Curnonsky, who in 1934 declared the city the world capital of gastronomy.

These casual establishments tend to be decorated in motley bric-a-brac; strangers sit elbow-to-elbow and the menu rarely deviates from dishes like tête de veau (poached calf’s head) and tablier de sapeur (a sort of chicken-fried tripe). But their most famous menu item is the quenelle de brochet, a football-shaped dumpling, similar to an oversize gnocchi, traditionally served in a coral-pink puddle of the shellfish-infused sauce called nantua.

“quenelle de brochet”
Pike was once plentiful here in the Rhône river, but it’s very bony and hard to eat. Originally, quenelles were a way to stretch and preserve the fish.

the best versions are cooked and cooled — preferably overnight — at least three times, a slow process that yields beans redolent with the deep flavors of the confit and pork sausage, topped by a thin layer of the dish’s natural juice and starches sealed in the oven.

Housed in a traditional Alsatian farmhouse in the village of Stutzheim, not far outside of Strasbourg, Le Marronnier (18 Route de Saverne; 33-3-88-69-84-30; restaurantlemarronnier.fr) welcomes lively crowds of locals. Like them, I began with a crisp-edged, bacon-strewn tarte flambée, cooked in the kitchen’s wood-burning oven, before tucking into the generous choucroute garnie, piled high with seven different cuts of pork and sausage.
france  français  cuisine  gastronomy  restaurant  list  alsace  bretagne  Toulouse  food  history  lyon 
may 2014 by aries1988
舌尖上的我家 - 饮水思源
在采回蓬蒿与胡葱之后,将其切碎待用。然后将糯米跟籼米按一定比例混合好下锅煮
,这个比例决定了社饭的口感是硬是软,完全要靠经验来掌握。煮糯米的同时,将腊肉切
粒爆炒,腊肉宜肥不宜瘦,要靠它的油脂来削弱蓬蒿与胡葱的杀伤力。然后把蓬蒿与胡葱
也切碎,腊肉、蓬蒿、胡葱一块儿拌入半熟的米饭中,混合均匀,继续煮。在蒸煮的过程
中,腊肉、蓬蒿与胡葱的味道都被糯米充分的吸收,肉香、菜香、米香混合在一起产生奇
妙的效果,那香气从高压锅的气孔中兹兹的往外冒,绝对能把你从数十米外牵引过来。

酸汤看上去实在是太寒酸了,甚至都难以被称作一道菜。然而在过年时候,满桌油腻
腻的大鱼大肉吃完,要是给你盛一碗清冽的酸汤,一口喝下去,只会觉得肠胃里所有的油
脂都被洗掉了,整个人都重获新生!或者是在没有胃口不想进食的时候,先来一碗酸汤,
顿时胃口大开,化身小鲸鱼!
gastronomy  hunan 
may 2014 by aries1988
冬食记
于是惭愧地想起来前些时候几个中国人凑在一起,从冬食说开去,上海人提起生煎,南京人首推鸭血粉丝汤,陕西人认为还是羊肉泡馍最应冬景,四川人笑而不语……似乎我们提起家乡的时候,向来所想真真切切的都是吃的。
gastronomy 
january 2014 by aries1988
法式洋葱汤给漫漫长夜画上句号 - 纽约时报 国际生活
美食作家朱丽叶·查尔德(Julia Child)在《我的法兰西岁月》一书中提到,凌晨3点酒吧打烊后,她会和朋友们去巴黎中央市场(Les Halles)溜达,而她对市场边上那家一年365天营业的“猪脚餐厅”(au pied de cochon)里的“洋葱汤”则情有独钟。
paris  gastronomy  soup 
november 2013 by aries1988
味道云南
”只见服务员把大海碗叮叮铛挡排成一排,随着“汤来——了”的吆喝声每只碗被装了半碗老腿鲜汤,表面上一层黄油,热气半点都不带冒,沉稳之极。没过几秒种,“米线——来了”的吆喝带来了一盘切得极薄的鲜肉片,火腿丝,鸡丝,一盘还带着水的豆芽豌豆苗青江菜和豆腐皮。肉先下,飞薄的肉片一入汤立刻变色起卷,再下菜,最后下米线,刚好满满一大碗。” 烤乳扇:
gastronomy 
november 2013 by aries1988
Tasting Tokyo, Guided by a Chef
Tokyo, a city Mr. Kinch first visited in 1989 and returns to regularly, is, he said, “the greatest eating city in the world.”

“It’s pretty hard to top the quality of food and the amount of restaurants and the diversity of styles that goes on there,” he said.

“It’s really hard to find bad food there,” he added.
guide  tokyo  gastronomy  sushi  travel 
november 2013 by aries1988
一块肉的生吃与熟吃 - 纽约时报 国际生活
火腿入口后,边上的油脂即刻化开,随后是甘甜和微咸的味道,回味一波接一波。火腿的味道当然不会像巧克力,但是那填满口腔浓郁的坚果香味,还有几乎不需咀嚼就可咽下的柔滑口感,再加上吃过一片后就会一片接一片吃下去上瘾般的快感,真的像吃巧克力一样。

当时出生在婺州(今浙江金华)的抗金英雄宗泽每从前线回家,都会买一些鲜猪腿请乡亲们帮忙腌制。以便带走行军。宗泽因此给火腿起名“家乡肉”并呈给高宗皇帝,宋高宗见猪腿色泽鲜红,随赐名“火腿”。
instapaper_favs  gastronomy  porc 
october 2013 by aries1988
川菜阴影下的湖南美食 - 纽约时报中文网 国际纵览
因为这是湖南菜,所以除了辣,几乎感觉不到别的。没有舒缓的甜味,也没有川菜里那种如同针刺舌尖,让人说不出话来的麻。这道菜的特色是咸味、烟熏味和酸味,而且每种口味都发挥到了极致。
gastronomy  hunan  newyork 
july 2013 by aries1988
舌尖上的大阪
http://www.instapaper.com/read/397984981
日本人常说,京都人会把钱全用来买衣服,神户人会把钱全用来买鞋,大阪人则不惜为美食倾其所有。不过,尽管大阪这座城市对吃有种异常执着的迷恋,海外游客一般还是会前往东京和京都,这就意味着大阪的餐馆首先必须取悦本地常客──对任何真正出色的餐馆来说,这都是一个极为重要的要求。日本其他地方的人说起大阪美食时通常是指面食小吃,比如章鱼烧(章鱼做成的丸子)、御好烧(加入猪肉或海鲜的煎饼)和炸串,这些东西会在喝啤酒(会喝很长时间)前后上桌。这类人气美食非常适合大阪这座繁荣的商业城市,这里满是吵吵嚷嚷、随心所欲、不受约束的人。但大阪也是一种鲜为人知的日式餐馆的发祥地,如今这种餐馆的影响已遍及整个烹饪界。
japan  moi  gastronomy  travel 
july 2013 by aries1988
文明开化的象征——寿喜锅 - 简书社
还记得三年前去日本,在箱根山脚下的一家小宾馆入住。夜幕降临,华灯初上,在洗完了温泉浴以后,大伙儿到了餐厅,坐在榻榻米上,惊喜地发现面前的几案上摆着的是一只火锅,琳琅满目的海味、肉和“野菜”超诱惑地摆满了一桌,但日式的火锅似乎完全不同于中国的火锅,在材料还没下锅前锅子里已经放了满满的料,让人看起来似乎开始就有大大的满足感,有带着点“万一吃不完怎么办呢”的未明恐惧。很快我们发现,这种担心是多余的,这火锅比较清淡,汤料带一点微甜,加上海味经过一段时间的炊煮后,鲜味已经融到了汤汁中,这个时候,把料入水氽烫一下,不蘸任何调味直接入口,半熟的嫩肉,还带点脆的“野菜”带着鲜汤的味道诱惑地挑拨你的味蕾。这一顿,人人吃到挺着肚子仰在榻榻米上。
gastronomy  japan 
july 2013 by aries1988
庶民口味——二八荞麦面 - 简书社
http://www.instapaper.com/read/397029142
由于“关西乌冬,关东荞麦”的关系,许多面类在日本几乎都有乌冬和荞麦两个版本,如月见乌冬对应就有月见荞麦,亲子乌冬对应也有亲子荞麦。单就荞麦而言,许多荞麦面都有冷和热两种吃法,比如月见和冷月见。冷荞麦一般称为“盛”,就是把荞麦面煮熟以后捞起,放在凉水里冲洗后上桌,佐料则放在另一个碗里。这种吃法采用“蘸”的方式,把荞麦面条夹起放到酱油、甜酒和出汁(一般用鱼干、海带等食物敖成的汤汁)配成的“汁”里蘸一下吃。热荞麦则称为“挂”,就是把汤汁直接倒到面上,再放上各种食物。据说选择冷吃还是热吃,能看出一个人是不是地道的荞麦面爱好者,真正会吃荞麦面的人往往会选择冷吃,因为冷吃如果不加佐料,就能吃到荞麦面不加干扰的最原始的味道。
japan  cuisine  gastronomy 
july 2013 by aries1988
半块腐乳就白粥
安徽人嗜臭是太有名了,臭鲑鱼、毛豆腐、长绿毛的火腿,跟随者纪录片《舌尖上的中国》而广为人知,而清代的记录中,李日华的《蓬栊夜话》就记载:“黟县(今安徽黄山市黟县)人喜于夏秋间醢腐,令变色生毛随拭去之,俟稍干投沸油中灼过,如制馓法漉出,以他物笔烹之,……然余曾一染指,直臭腐耳,未睹其神奇也。”王致和将一个地方的特色饮食引入另一地,似乎更顺理成章了。后来据说连慈禧太后都尝过这王致和的臭腐乳,还赐名“御青方”,这一下臭出名了!
china  gastronomy 
july 2013 by aries1988
那些“不适合游客”的重庆美食 - 纽约时报中文网 国际纵览
在“民俗美食街”;不要错过“八锅贴”的鲜肉锅贴饺子,12元人民币一份)。但是我更喜欢另一个仿古的地方:富侨连锁按摩店,这家店的内部采用传统装修。在这里,花80元人民币你能得到90分钟的全套按摩。
我毫无怨言地品尝了每一样东西,当央央快乐地宣布我有“一个重庆胃”的时候,我很高兴。实际上,你不让我吃猪肚和鸭肠我没意见。但是我意外地爱上了另一样东西:切成细丝的腰子肉,与新鲜的葱丝、姜丝和豆芽卷在一起,用牙签固定住。甚至当你把它从火锅中捞出来,把它浸泡在酱中,然后放入口中的时候,它还是滚烫的,而且又辣又麻。但是一旦你咬下去,一切都变了:豆芽嘎吱作响,小葱和姜丝的味道透过麻辣味爆发出来
gastronomy  china  travel 
may 2013 by aries1988
腌凤尾鱼:小咸鱼撑大台面 - 纽约时报中文网 国际纵览
在我的菜谱里,有那么几道菜,食客不问,我从来不会主动说里面放了什么。这其中就有那么几道因为放了“腌凤尾鱼”(anchovy)而出奇美味。
http://www.instapaper.com/read/323560327
googlereader  cuisine  gastronomy  recete 
september 2012 by aries1988
一碗猪肝醡
云南有一类菜都叫做醡(zha),茄子醡、罗卜醡、鱼醡、猪肝醡。对于素菜来说,醡的意思是把蔬菜晾晒到半蔫,然后用米粉搅拌,放在陶罐中腌制发酵。吃的时候酸香可口,很适合下饭,所以茄子醡是家常菜。肉类也是用类似的方法封存在陶罐中腌制,其中猪肝醡是大理鹤庆独有的风味。
essay  gastronomy  yunnan  china 
april 2011 by aries1988
踏青寻味:广西美食探寻之旅
清明节相信很多朋友都背上行囊踏上了旅程,现在这个季节呢,很多菜友都选择去美丽的广西走一走!徜徉在那绝色的桂林、漓江、阳朔……小豆照例给大家带来了广西“深度”(笑)寻味之旅,让大家在广西欣赏绝美风景啊,还能品尝上好佳肴,岂不美哉!人生的享受不过如此啦~
gastronomy  china  guangxi  travel 
april 2011 by aries1988
二毛:槽头肉
去年夏天回成都,去彩虹桥附近一家面馆吃面,顺便要了一个摆在大门口正冒着热气的小笼粉蒸肉,里边的肉是切成拇指大的丁,吃第一口就觉得腴滑脆嫩,一点也不腻,顿时感到只有猪的槽头才有此绝妙的吃口。
gastronomy  pork 
april 2011 by aries1988

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