recentpopularlog in

jerryking : chris_nuttall-smith   57

Cava: Novelty hasn’t worn at convivial Toronto midtown tapas spot - The Globe and Mail
The Globe and Mail
Published Friday, Aug. 14, 2015

The “supergilda” pincho here is magnificent, a stacked composition of tomato-smeared toast and of olives wrapped in anchovies, with a whole fat sardine fillet that’s rich and clean and luxuriously fatty, that’s been seared to honeyed sweetness and then pickled overnight.

Cava’s famed fried eggplant, too, delivers as much of a flavour jolt as it ever has. The flesh is deep fried to crisp-sweet and oozy, set in a dish of super-tart tomatillo salsa. It arrives under shavings of dried tuna belly that dance and wave in the rising steam and taste like maritime jerky. The dish isn’t Spanish, exactly: It is also Japanese izakaya food, with assists from South America. Cava is Spanish at heart, but it has always played hard against type.

We had fried, creamy-centred artichokes one night that took me to Rome, except in Rome I didn’t eat fried artichokes anywhere near as good as this. Cava’s ceviche (hello, Peru!) is a masterwork of judgment. The balance, the seasoning, the textures are all exactly right.

And as always, there are simple pleasures to please any crowd: There’s Iberico ham at the bar, and avocado toasts with herring roe, and the signature, twice-cooked papas fritas that come in a paper cone, with a dish of properly smoky paprika aioli.

The soup special recently was a bowl of genius: It was a bisque, made from lobster and white fish, taut with sweet-acid tension and the tastes of anise and herbs and deep-sea minerality. It was French, not Spanish, but you’d be a fool to complain.
restaurants  restaurant_reviews  Chris_Nuttall-Smith  midtown  Spanish  hams  pork  jamón_ibérico  Spain  cured_and_smoked  tapas  Toronto 
august 2015 by jerryking
Dindigul Thalappakattu Biriyani: The best biryani in Toronto - The Globe and Mail
The Globe and Mail
Published Friday, Mar. 20 2015

He makes biryani, the one-pot, special-occasions dish of layered, slow-cooked rice, spice and meat that is often called Indian cooking’s highest achievement. Even today, he still gets would-be customers who come looking for samosas or roti and leave in a huff.
restaurants  restaurant_reviews  Toronto  cuisine  Chris_Nuttall-Smith  one-pot  Indians  rice 
march 2015 by jerryking
Sea Witch Fish & Chips and Farmer’s Daughter: The right way and wrong way to draw inspiration for a new restaurant - The Globe and Mail
The Globe and Mail
Published Friday, Oct. 03 2014

Sea Witch Fish & Chips (A Cheap Eats pick, where you can dine well for under $30, before alcohol, tax and tip): 636 St. Clair Ave. W (at Wychwood Avenue), 647-349-4824,
Chris_Nuttall-Smith  restaurants  restaurant_reviews  fish 
october 2014 by jerryking
The Financial District's chic, flashy Drake One Fifty simply disappoints when it comes to food - The Globe and Mail
The Globe and Mail
Published Friday, Jan. 10 2014,

I nearly had to look around when I tried it, to make sure that I hadn’t been transported to another, better, place.

I hadn’t. The music was still throbbing (do not even dream of quiet conversation here on a busy evening), the feel of the place still more down-market mega chain than trailblazing arts and culture hub. I admire the moxy it took to build a room this wild, and can only imagine the pots of money it must have cost. But I wouldn’t send friends here on their own dime. I can’t in good conscience send you.
Chris_Nuttall-Smith  restaurants  restaurant_reviews  Bay_Street  disappointment 
september 2014 by jerryking
Ivan Reitman’s latest role is worth checking out: maître d’ at his new restaurant Montecito - The Globe and Mail
The Globe and Mail
Published Friday, Sep. 05 2014

Name Montecito
Location 299 Adelaide Street West
City Toronto
Province Ontario
Phone 416-599-0299
Chris_Nuttall-Smith  restaurant_reviews  restaurants  Entertainment_District  brunch 
september 2014 by jerryking
For a good time (and lots of food), head to Fat Pasha - The Globe and Mail
The Globe and Mail
Published Friday, Jun. 27 2014,

Name Fat Pasha
Location 414 Dupont Street
City Toronto
Province Ontario
Phone 647-340-6142
Price Sharing plates $9 to $34.
Atmosphere: Warm and convivial, with a rare all-ages mix. Gorgeous back patio with communal tables and a koi pond.
Drinks on Offer: Short, well chosen beer and wine lists. Superb cocktails, especially the tomato water and fennel “tomaccio.” Excellent araks.
Best Bets: The daily salatim platter, a hummus, latkas, roast cauliflower, schmaltz fried rice, ice cream sandwich, stuffed doughnuts.
Vegetarian Friendly? Yes
Chris_Nuttall-Smith  restaurants  restaurant_reviews 
july 2014 by jerryking
Haitian cuisine gets its due at a pair of Toronto restaurants - The Globe and Mail
The Globe and Mail
Published Friday, Jun. 06 2014, 6:03 PM EDT
Last updated Friday, Jun. 06 2014, 6:04
restaurants  restaurant_reviews  Haitian  Chris_Nuttall-Smith 
june 2014 by jerryking
Airport dining goes upscale: An eater’s guide to Pearson’s restaurant boom - The Globe and Mail
Mar. 07 2014| The Globe and Mail |CHRIS NUTTALL-SMITH

Where to eat and drink at Pearson International Airport

Terminal 1 Departures


Boccone Trattoria Veloce. Order a pizza, a plate of the terrific spaghetti and meatballs, a salad, fried calamari and a few glasses of wine.


Boccone Pronto, for a pizza
Fetta, for an aged white cheddar and fig jam sandwich, a salad and a cocktail
Vinifera for a glass of interesting wine (the Kotsifali-Mandilaria is incredible).

Terminal 3 departures

Domestic and international:

Corso, for excellent pizza.

International only:

Vinifera, for a drink.
Acer, for noodles, pickled vegetables, some sushi and the grilled eel.
restaurants  restaurant_reviews  Chris_Nuttall-Smith  airports  Pearson_International  YYZ  travel  Toronto  retailers 
march 2014 by jerryking
Hungry yet? Five big ideas for food in 2014 - The Globe and Mail
Chris Nuttall-Smith

The Globe and Mail

Published Tuesday, Jan. 07 2014
food  Chris_Nuttall-Smith  trends 
january 2014 by jerryking
Finally: A relaxed, welcoming izakaya and yakitori joint in Toronto
Nov. 29 2013 | The Globe and Mail| CHRIS NUTTALL-SMITH.

yakitori cooking – charcoal-grilled meat, fish and vegetable skewers; the term “kushiyaki” is also used – and izakaya food, the cheap and cheerful Japanese pub grub
Japanese  restaurants  restaurant_reviews  Chris_Nuttall-Smith  Cabbagetown  grilling 
december 2013 by jerryking
Where to eat – and drink – in Parkdale now: Geraldine’s a gem from a bygone era - The Globe and Mail
Oct. 18 2013 | G&M | CHRIS NUTTALL-SMITH.

Name Geraldine
Location 1564 Queen Street West (at Sorauren Avenue)
City Toronto
Phone 647-352-8815
Price Smallish plates: $5 to $18
Atmosphere Casual: A fancy, pre-prohibition Parkdale saloon, complete with piano player and period-appropriate facial hair. Friendly, welcoming service.
Drinks on Offer Full Bar,: Serious cocktails made very well, good spirits (including absinthe), wine and beers.
Additional Info Best Bets: Seafood tower, duck sandwich, soft-boiled egg with caviar, fries, mignardises. Menu changes often. Cash only for now
restaurants  Toronto  Parkdale  Chris_Nuttall-Smith  vintage  drinks  liquor  restaurant_reviews  Absinthe 
november 2013 by jerryking
Five amazing places to eat and drink in Toronto's Kensington Market
Oct. 13 2013 | - The Globe and Mail | CHRIS NUTTALL-SMITH

1. Sanagan's Meat Locker
176 Baldwin, Toronto —176 Baldwin Street, 416-593-9747, @SevenLivesTO,
2. Seven Lives Tacos
69 Kensington Ave., Toronto
3. Cold Tea Bar
60 Kensington Ave., Toronto — Cold Tea is a dive bar.
4. Rasta Pasta
61 Kensington Avenue, Toronto — You will smell cook and co-owner Magnus Patterson’s work before you see it, and that smell, of juicy, smoky, caramel and scotch bonnet-kissed jerk chicken thighs and smouldering pimento wood charcoal, will be intoxicating.
5. Fica
28 Kensington Ave., Toronto — So what if this Swedish-inspired café, owned and operated by the photographer Nikki Leigh McKean and her husband, Splendido chef Victor Barry, has a slightly different vibe from most of its neighbours?
Kensington_Market  Toronto  restaurants  Chris_Nuttall-Smith  sandwiches 
october 2013 by jerryking
Leslieville (finally) gets bona fide destination dining
Sep. 27 2013 | The Globe and Mail |CHRIS NUTTALL-SMITH

Name Bero
Location 889 Queen Street East
City Toronto
Province Ontario
Phone 416-477-3393
Price Four courses, $56; seven courses, $84
Atmosphere Mid-range: White linens, good crystal, a little bit of barnboard – Leslieville at its elegant best. Warm, sometimes over-earnest service.
Drinks on Offer Beer in Bottles, Cocktails, Wine List,: Excellent cocktails, a few beers, a short, well-chosen wine list.
Additional Info Four- and seven-course tasting menus only.
restaurants  restaurant_reviews  Chris_Nuttall-Smith  Leslieville 
october 2013 by jerryking
The Chase: Moneyed Toronto’s hottest reservation earns the 3-star buzz -
Oct. 04 2013 | The Globe and Mail | CHRIS NUTTALL-SMITH.

Name: The Chase
Location: 10 Temperance Street (at Yonge Street)
Phone: 647-348-7000
Cuisine Canadiana, American
Atmosphere Fine Dining: An elegant, comfortable and energetic penthouse room with a killer view. Superb service.
Drinks on Offer Full Bar,: A long, decent, fairly priced wine list with a few good picks for wine geeks and just enough whale-bait Burgs and Cabs. A basic martini will cost you $18.
Additional Info Best bets: Mozzarella, crab and gnocchi, pearl platter, whole chicken, veal and shrimp, scallops, peas and corn, angel cake. Menu changes frequently.
restaurants  restaurant_reviews  Toronto  Chris_Nuttall-Smith  Bay_Street  Yonge_Street 
october 2013 by jerryking
So we’ve reached peak foodism. Don’t panic
Aug. 27 2013 | The Globe and Mail| CHRIS NUTTALL-SMITH.
zeitoon parvardeh – that’s olives tossed with walnuts, mint and pomegranate molasses – to fill the lull.
foodies  Chris_Nuttall-Smith  Persian 
october 2013 by jerryking
Playa Cabana: Mediocre Mexican falls short of promises - The Globe and Mail
The Globe and Mail
Friday, May. 31 2013

One evening I watched a man in a Sysco uniform push two hand trucks of boxed oxtail, frozen octopus and other groceries through Playa Cabana’s Junction dining room. Sysco is a Houston-based foodservice distributor, the world’s largest. It is the restaurant-supply equivalent to Walmart, approximately, the last place a principled kitchen goes for local, sustainable, organic, artisanal groceries.
Mexican  restaurant_reviews  restaurants  Chris_Nuttall-Smith  Toronto  foodservice  Junction 
june 2013 by jerryking
At reinvented Splendido, the fine dining is only fine
Apr. 26 2013| The Globe and Mail | by CHRIS NUTTALL-SMITH.

Name Splendido
88 Harbord Street
Toronto, Ontario, Phone 416-929-7788.

Best bets: Smoked oyster, foie gras, any of the pastas, pork shoulder soup, veal chop, “The Perfect Egg.” Menu changes frequently; NB: Four course prix fixe for $65, full brunch for $35.
restaurant_reviews  Toronto  restaurants  brunch  Chris_Nuttall-Smith 
may 2013 by jerryking
Porzia: A Toronto restaurant that should be one of the greats
Mar. 30 2013 | The Globe and Mail | CHRIS NUTTALL-SMITH.

Porzia, 1314 Queen Street West, Toronto. Phone 647-342-5776
Website (Italian)
Chris_Nuttall-Smith  restaurant_reviews  restaurants  Toronto  Italian 
march 2013 by jerryking
An Ingredient Guide
February 2, 2013 | G&M | Chris Nuttall-Smith
Japanese  Japan  food  Chris_Nuttall-Smith  soups  pork  meat  noodles  glossaries 
february 2013 by jerryking
5 top spots for ramen in Toronto -
Feb. 02 2013 | The Globe and Mail | CHRIS NUTTALL-SMITH

(5) A-OK Foods - 930 Queen St. W (at Shaw)647.352.2243
(4) Ramen Raijin - 3 Gerrard St. E. (at Yonge) 647.748.1500
(3) Kinton Ramen - 51 Baldwin St. (at Beverly St.) 647.748.8900
(2) Sansotei - 179 Dundas St. W. (at Chestnut St.) 647.476.3833
(1) Hokkaido Ramen Santouka - 91 Dundas St. E. (at Church St.) 647.748.1717
restaurants  Japanese  Toronto  Chris_Nuttall-Smith  Yonge_Street 
february 2013 by jerryking
Patria: Spanish for the fly crowd
Jan. 12 2013 | The Globe and Mail | CHRIS NUTTALL-SMITH.
Name: Patria
Location 478 King Street West (at Spadina Avenue)
City Toronto
Phone 416-276-8875
Additional Info Best bets: Pan con tomate, seafood croquetas, olives, sliced ham, oxtail peppers, patatas bravas, gambas, chickpea stew, paella, coffee ice cream with olives.
Chris_Nuttall-Smith  restaurant_reviews  restaurants  Toronto  Spanish  hams  King_Street  King-Spadina 
january 2013 by jerryking
How we ate: 2012's most important ideas in food and drink
Jan. 01 2013 | - The Globe and Mail |CHRIS NUTTALL-SMITH.

Canada’s two-tier food system is official

The downside to foodies as a political force: While rich, urban epicures rallied against that quarry, they were mostly silent during the XL Foods Inc. E. coli crisis, as tainted, factory-processed feedlot beef was recalled across Canada, and the federal government made clear that its first priority is protecting Canada’s agribusiness – as opposed to Canada’s people.

I don’t blame the foodies – you can take on only so many issues, and many will argue, correctly, that a rising good-food tide eventually lifts all boats.

But the silence made sense for another reason: Rich epicures, with their love of small producers, artisanal butcher shops and pastured protein, don’t eat factory-processed feedlot beef. The plebes, meantime – the vast majority of Canadians – had better learn to fend for themselves.
food  trends  Chris_Nuttall-Smith  product_recalls  E._coli  beef  OPMA  ideas 
january 2013 by jerryking
Meat producers blast plan to ban more E.coli strains - The Globe and Mail
Chris Nuttall-Smith

The Globe and Mail

Last updated Monday, Sep. 10 2012,
E._coli  Chris_Nuttall-Smith 
january 2013 by jerryking
Toronto’s Farmhouse Tavern: pretense-free, but inconsistent - The Globe and Mail
Jul. 21 2012 | The Globe and Mail | CHRIS NUTTALL-SMITH.

Name Farmhouse Tavern
Location 1627 Dupont St., Toronto
Chris_Nuttall-Smith  Toronto  restaurant_reviews  restaurants 
july 2012 by jerryking
12 simple (but essential) rules for buying and cooking fish - The Globe and Mail
From Wednesday's Globe and Mail
Published Tuesday, Apr. 17, 2012 5:52PM EDT
Last updated Wednesday, Apr. 18, 2012

River Cottage Fish Book: The Definitive Guide to Sourcing and Cooking Sustainable Fish and Shellfish.
Chris_Nuttall-Smith  fish  howto  books 
may 2012 by jerryking
The 10 ideas that changed food in 2011 - The Globe and Mail
chris nuttall-smith
From Wednesday's Globe and Mail
Published Tuesday, Dec. 27, 2011
ideas  food  trends  Chris_Nuttall-Smith 
january 2012 by jerryking
Toronto’s pizza wars heat up (to about 900 F) - The Globe and Mail
From Saturday's Globe and Mail
Published Friday, Nov. 04, 2011
Chris_Nuttall-Smith  Toronto  competition  pizza 
november 2011 by jerryking
You eat meat, so why not blood? Chefs strive to warm up diners to the red stuff - The Globe and Mail
chris nuttall-smith
From Wednesday's Globe and Mail
Published Tuesday, Oct. 18, 2011

There's a wave of not-your-usual blood dishes turning up on influential menus in Canada and the United States...There’s a very good chance, in other words, that your dinner is about to get bloody.

To be sure, this is nothing new to most Europeans – from black pudding to morcilla to Poland’s duck blood soup, the continent has almost too many blood recipes to count. Blood dishes are also common across South and Central America, Africa and most of Asia; you can find blood tofu in many Chinese grocery stores in Canada; some Vietnamese restaurants also offer pork blood pho.
offal  restauranteurs  restaurants  carnivore  meat  Chris_Nuttall-Smith 
october 2011 by jerryking

Copy this bookmark:

to read