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Can Smartphones Stop the Death of the Salesman? - WSJ
By Khadeeja Safdar | Photographs by Dominick Reuter for The Wall Street Journal
April 15, 2018 8:00 a.m
smartphones  retailers  mens'_clothing  suits  apparel  salespeople  bricks-and-mortar 
april 2018 by jerryking
Italian luxury group Zegna tailors its cloth to suit millennials
NOVEMBER 19, 2017 | FT | by Rachel Sanderson in Milan.

Casual wear has become the fastest-growing luxury segment as tech savvy consumers want a high-end iteration of the “hoodie and sneakers look” favoured by tech entrepreneurs from Silicon Valley to China.....The response of Mr Zegna, who together with his sister Anna and cousin Paolo run Zegna, has been to “reinvent ourselves in the casualisation world”.
.....So-called casualisation of luxury is one of the biggest trends in the €250bn industry, according to consultant Bain. Luxury brands invested €500m on developing “rubber slides” (a type of flip-flop) last year alone and €3.5bn on sneakers in an effort to attract millennial and Generation Z consumers, estimated to make up nearly half of the luxury market by 2025.

Failure to spot the trend can prove costly. Patrizio Bertelli, co-chief executive of family firm Prada, last month blamed a failure to spot the trend for luxury sneakers behind a tumble in revenues in its first half.

The luxury industry invested €3.5bn on sneakers last year as they tap the trend for upmarket casualisation © Bloomberg
“If there is one product today that is impulse driven and creates emotions [among consumers] it is the sneaker,”
..Zegna’s strength is that it controls its entire supply chain. ....Zegna three years ago bought a 6,300 acre farm with 10,000 sheep in Australia. Last year, it bought 60 per cent of a textile factory in Italy. Mr Zegna likes to say that Zegna goes from “sheep to shop to screen”, the latter in a nod to the rise of online shopping for luxury. Of its 7,000 employees half work in the industry and half in distribution.
.......Zegna says having raw materials and manufacturing at its fingertips has surprisingly proven a boon. “In this day in which the suit, like the tie, is not so popular, people are going for personalisation,”
.....In the world of men’s luxury — like other disrupted industries — consumers either want things “very fast” luxury or “very slow”, he argues.

For those willing and able to pay upwards of €5,000 for a bespoke suit, “It will take at least three months for you to have your beautiful garment,” says Mr Zegna with an evident satisfaction.
luxury  Italian  mens'_clothing  suits  millennials  CEOs  sneakers  family-owned_businesses  Zegna  digital_savvy 
november 2017 by jerryking
Visiting a Tailor in Hong Kong? Be Specific
OCT. 26, 2017 | The New York Times | By M.J. SMITH.

First, know what you want in the finished garment-- In detail.(e.g. if you want specific features — topstitching, a watch pocket in trousers or channels for shirt collar stays — you have to say so when you place the order). Another possibility: Bring a favorite garment to be copied. (And that’s what will be produced: an exact copy.).....Second, consider your travel schedule. Many tailors can, indeed, produce a suit overnight — or will measure you just before you dash to the airport train, then send the finished garment by express delivery. But having at least one fitting, and preferably two, will produce a much better result.........Fabric is a good indicator of price. A suit made from top-quality materials, which will pack with little wrinkling and keep its shape over time, is likely to cost from $1,500 to more than $3,000. Moderately priced fabrics will result in lower-priced garments. But, regardless of what someone on the internet says, a $300 suit that will fit perfectly, wear like a dream and last for decades is a fantasy.
Hong_Kong  suits  mens'_clothing  bespoke 
november 2017 by jerryking
Fashion that travels as well as it looks - The Globe and Mail
ADAM STANLEY
Special to The Globe and Mail
Published Monday, May 29, 2017

travel cubes
mens'_clothing  travel 
july 2017 by jerryking
As Retailers Race to Close Stores, a Web Startup Is Opening Them - WSJ
By Khadeeja Safdar
April 30, 2017

Online brands are treading more carefully into physical retail. Several brands, such as Everlane, Casper and Warby Parker, have opened temporary stores to test out foot traffic and experiment with new concepts. ....One challenge for online brands is to ensure that new locations increase sales, rather than cannibalize existing business.

“We have to see the interplay between our online and offline channels,” said Ms. Ulman. “A customer who shops online and offline is supposed to be very valuable, but we want to understand just how much more valuable.”....Online apparel brands are finding that they don’t need much to set up a store. The evolution of point-of-sales technology means that transactions can now be made on phones and tablets. Some newer retailers don’t even keep much inventory. Bonobos, which started out selling men’s clothing online, lets customers try on items at its more than two dozen “guideshops” and mails purchases to their doorsteps.

Greats sells eight core styles of shoes in different colors and materials, making its business more mobile than that of a traditional retailer. At its new locations, the company plans to bring its own interior elements such as shelving, greenery and lighting.

“You can do a lot within four walls,” said Ms. Ulman. “All we really need is some Wi-Fi.”
sneakers  pop-ups  e-commerce  retailers  physical_retail  store_closings  shopping_malls  landlords  bricks-and-mortar  foot_traffic  omnichannel  short-term  leasing  inventory-free  cannibalization  Bonobos  Everlane  Casper  Warby_Parker  point-of-sale  brands  Wi-Fi  mens'_clothing  apparel 
june 2017 by jerryking
The Amazon-Walmart Showdown That Explains the Modern Economy - The New York Times
Neil Irwin @Neil_Irwin JUNE 16, 2017

The decision by Amazon and Walmart to compete for my grocery business — as well as for space in my closet — is a tiny battle in a war to dominate a changing global economy.

And for companies that can’t compete on price and technology, it could cost them the shirt off their backs.....[Amazon's purchase of high-end grocery chain Whole Foods places it] on a collision course with Walmart to try to be the predominant seller of pretty much everything you buy.

Each one is trying to become more like the other — Walmart by investing heavily in its technology, Amazon by opening physical bookstores and now buying physical supermarkets. But this is more than a battle between two business titans. Their rivalry sheds light on the shifting economics of nearly every major industry, replete with winner-take-all effects and huge advantages that accrue to the biggest and best-run organizations, to the detriment of upstarts and second-fiddle players.....in turn...this has more worrying implications for jobs, wages and inequality.

Amazon vs. Walmart

Both want to sell everything!!!!

Walmart is buying Bonobos, an omnichannel innovator. Its website and online customer service are excellent, and it operates stores in major cities where you can try on garments and order items to be shipped directly. Because all the actual inventory is centralized, the stores themselves can occupy minimal square footage. The acquisition helps Walmart build expertise in the very areas where it is trying to gain on Amazon.

Walmart and Amazon have had their sights on each other for years, each aiming to be the dominant seller of goods via omnichannel.

Amazon's purchase of Whole Foods helps it to understand the grocery business which has a whole different set of challenges from the types of goods that Amazon has specialized in heretofore.

A Positive Returns-to-Scale World
The apparel business has long been a highly competitive industry in which countless players could find a niche.....any shirt-maker that tried to get too big rapidly faced diminishing returns.It would have to pay more and more to lease the real estate for far-flung stores, and would have to outbid competitors to hire all the experienced shirt-makers. The expansion wouldn’t offer any meaningful cost savings and would entail a lot more headaches trying to manage it all....in the digital economy, rather than reflecting those diminishing returns to scale, show positive returns to scale: The biggest companies have a huge advantage over smaller players. That tends to tilt markets toward a handful of players or even a monopoly....The apparel industry...is moving in the direction of being like the software business (high fixed costs, zero variable costs, enormous returns to scale)..... the reason why Walmart and Amazon are so eager get into the shirt business is because retailers know that they need to figure out how to manage sophisticated supply chains connecting Southeast Asia with stores in big American cities so that they rarely run out of product. They need mobile apps and websites that offer a seamless user experience so that nothing stands between a would-be purchaser and an order....Larger companies that are good at supply chain management and technology can spread those more-or-less fixed costs around more total sales, enabling them to keep prices lower than a niche player and entrench their advantage....large companies will invest in automation/robotics...the future of clothing/apparel might be a handful of companies with the very expensive shirt-making robots---and everyone else shut out in the cold.

What It Means for the Economy

A relative few winners are taking a disproportionate share of business in a wide range of industries....in turn may help explain why the income gap has widened in recent years. How much on income inequality is driven by shifting technology — as opposed to changing corporate behavior, or loose antitrust policy — is an open debate.
increasing_returns_to_scale  winner-take-all  fixed_costs  variable_costs  Amazon  Wal-Mart  Whole_Foods  retailers  economics  Bonobos  shirts  mens'_clothing  omnichannel  apparel  digital_economy  automation  robotics  competitive_landscape  market_concentration  barbell_effect  income_inequality  antitrust  market_power  corporate_concentration  grocery  fresh_produce  supermarkets  large_companies  UX  inventory-free  global_economy 
june 2017 by jerryking
The Fashion Outlaw Dapper Dan
JUNE 3, 2017 | The New York Times | By BARRY MICHAEL COOPER.

Twenty-five years after luxury labels sued his Harlem
boutique out of existence, Gucci looks to him for inspiration......Things have come full circle. Litigation by luxury brands ran Dapper Dan’s Boutique out of business in the ’90s, and now here comes a major fashion house trying to grab the attention of a generation steeped in hip-hop by finding inspiration in a onetime fashion outlaw...... last week after Gucci unveiled a jacket that looked very much like one he designed nearly three decades ago for the Olympic sprinter Diane Dixon.

The fur-lined piece with balloon sleeves created by Mr. Day in the 1980s made use of the Louis Vuitton logo without the brand’s permission. The new Gucci jacket, designed by Gucci’s creative director, Alessandro Michele, remakes the Dapper Dan jacket, but with the interlocking double-G Gucci logo in place of the Louis Vuitton markings......Gucci [now] acknowledges its debt to the designer......In addition to Gucci’s recent salutation, the Museum of Modern Art plans to include Mr. Day’s work in its fall show “Items.” In an email, MoMA’s senior curator of architecture and design, Paola Antonelli, called Mr. Day a “trailblazer” who “showed even the guardians of the original brands the power of creative appropriation, the new life that an authentically ‘illicit’ use could inject into a stale logo, as well as the commercial potential of a stodgy monogram’s walk on the hip-hop side.”.....“What Dap did was take what those major fashion labels were doing and made them better,” said the rapper Darold Ferguson, Jr., who goes by the stage name ASAP Ferg and whose father, Darold Sr., worked at the boutique in the ’80s. “He taught them how to use their designs in a much more effective way. Dap curated hip-hop culture.”

Steve Stoute, the chief executive of the marketing firm Translation, said: “I think what Dap did, he actually taught an entire generation how to engage with luxury brands. Luxury brands, at that point, were not for us. They didn’t even have sizing for black people. So every time I walk into Louis Vuitton to buy a pair of sneakers, or buy a pair of pants in my size, I know they’re only doing it because of Dapper Dan.”....experiences with poverty growing up [crummy shoes] gave him an understanding of how clothes reflect social status.... the need to dress to impress is part of a generational mind-set for many black men who grew up in Harlem......Clothes designing sounds fascinating, but it’s hard work. Folks don’t realize that there are limitations in the body form. We’re humans: We have arms, legs, chest. The exciting part of designing clothes is that you can be really creative within the context of those limitations.”.......Samira Nasr, the fashion director for Elle magazine, likened Mr. Day’s work to that of the innovative hip-hop D.J.s of the era, such as Jason Mizell, a client of Mr. Day’s. Mr. Mizell, who died in 2002, created beats for Run-DMC under the name Jam Master Jay. “Sampling was taking existing music and slicing it to recreate new sounds for original lyrics,” Ms. Nasr wrote in an email. “Dap was sampling in a way. He was taking existing fabrications and breathing new life and beauty into them.”
litigation  luxury  brands  clothing_labels  Gucci  Harlem  stylish  mens'_clothing  African-Americans  New_York_City  sampling  streetwise  '80s  '90s  inspiration  hip_hop  fashion  outlaws  design  retailers  knockoffs  copycats  creative_appropriation  underground_economy  crack_cocaine 
june 2017 by jerryking
The Straightforward Style of the Polymathic B.J. Novak - The New York Times
By BEE SHAPIRODEC. 7, 2016
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stylish  mens'_clothing  accessories  celebrities 
january 2017 by jerryking
A Men’s Wear Store Made for Men - The New York Times
By JON CARAMANICA DEC. 28, 2016

Todd Snyder 25 Madison Square North, 917-242-3482; toddsnyder.com

The Look A salad bar of men’s clothing and lifestyle accessories, in a neighborhood that needs it badly. The clothes are crisp but conservative, not nearly as aspirational as the store would have you believe.

The Vibe The staff is friendly, conversational, sometimes exuberant, like the woman who rang me up while exulting over how much cooler this place is than her last job (which was at Vince, so I could understand her sense of relief).

The Cost The clothes alone are reasonably priced, but around every corner is a potential upsell: Walk in wanting a T-shirt, leave with a Rolex.
New_York_City  mens'_clothing  stylish  retailers 
january 2017 by jerryking
A Style Guide That’s Man’s Best Friend - WSJ
By NICK REMSEN
Sept. 7, 2016

From Amazon:
Men and Style reaches beyond standard “what to wear” advice: It is equal parts style guide and intriguing conversation about the masculine identity within the world of fashion. David Coggins explores the history of men’s style and learns from some of the most notable tastemakers in the industry and beyond. Its essays and interviews discuss the lessons men learned from their fathers, the mistakes they made as young men, and how they emerged to become better men. Some of the most dapper men in the world discuss bad mustaches, misguided cologne choices, and unfortunate prom tuxedos. All the men here have arrived at a place in the world and have a keen understanding about how they fit in it. Men and Style celebrates singular men who’ve lived well and can tell us about how they earned their worldview. They’re smart enough to absorb the wisdom that’s hidden in the world, and even smarter to wear that wisdom lightly.
stylish  books  mens'_clothing  taste-makers  masculinity  fashion  opinon_makers  worldviews 
september 2016 by jerryking
Most men can wear anything to work, so why would one choose to wear a suit? - The Globe and Mail
JEREMY FREED
Special to The Globe and Mail
Published Wednesday, May 11, 2016

For guys who still choose to wear a suit every day this isn’t a style statement, it’s a mix of strategy, philosophy and propriety.....“When you’re working for celebrities and representing them, I believe you should give them the respect of being a true professional,” he says. “How you dress and carry yourself is part of that.”....“I think there’s a sense of maturity and work ethic that is embodied by the clothes that you wear,” ....bespoke suits made by Lorenzo Cifonelli in Paris, Savile Row’s Chittleborough & Morgan, and Sr. Francesco at Toronto’s Leatherfoot Emporium. Buy the best you can afford and expects your suits to last at least a decade. As such, favour classic silhouettes in muted tones, nothing flashy or trendy, just masterful tailoring and superlative quality.
mens'_clothing  stylish 
may 2016 by jerryking
Power Dressing: Craig Robins, Dacra - FT.com
August 15, 2014 6:11 pm
Power Dressing: Craig Robins, Dacra
By Jim Shi
mens'_clothing  stylish  suits  accessories 
september 2015 by jerryking
The N.B.A. Draft Needs a Men’s Wear Makeover - The New York Times
June 26, 2015 | NYT | Vanessa Friedman

Yet all this dress-up seems to me to distract from the purpose of the moment, and the real skill being celebrated (and signed). That belongs to the men in the costumes, and it is both subtle and elegant: an ability to understand space and geometry and manipulate a ball in ways that are as complex and exact as the seams in a perfectly made suit.

So shouldn’t they wear the clothes to match? The best suits are the ones that act as a background to the persona inside, and which frame the, well, frame to its ultimate advantage.
mens'_clothing  athletes_&_athletics  basketball  NBA  African-Americans  suits 
june 2015 by jerryking
Cribb: The fit of a custom made shirt is worth the price | Toronto Star
Rob Cribb Isle of Man Published on Thu Nov 11 2010

Made-to-measure, which is a bit cheaper and faster, applies your measurements to a standard pattern. With bespoke, Durrant creates a pattern from scratch based on your particulars.
“Made-to-measure is still custom and much better than off-the-rack,” he says, “but it’s not as precise as bespoke.”
mens'_clothing  bespoke  suits 
january 2015 by jerryking
U.S. Retailers Learn to Speak Canadian - WSJ
By RITA TRICHUR
Dec. 3, 2014

High-profile stumbles are not lost on those still planning to enter. “We’ve been paying attention to every American retailer that moved into Canada,” said Ms. White of Nordstrom, which expects an approximate loss of $35 million in 2014 due to infrastructure and pre-opening costs.

After first announcing its intentions back in 2012, Nordstrom immediately called some its best Canadian customers. Hosting about 160 of those clients in Calgary, Ottawa, Vancouver and Toronto, the retailer treated them to hors d’oeuvres while seeking their feedback for a Canadian launch. “Bring us the full Nordstrom. Don’t bring us Nordstrom lite,” was the consistent message.
crossborder  luxury  mens'_clothing  retailers  Harry_Rosen  Nordstrom  localization  Saks  loyalty_management  pay_attention 
december 2014 by jerryking
Ways a Guy Can Liven Up a Middle-Aged Wardrobe - WSJ - WSJ
By TERI AGINS
Updated Oct. 30, 2014

men who want to look au courant must zero in on nuances like accessories—scarves, hats, sunglasses, watches and, most of all, shoes. Attention, mature men, the trimmings are there for you too!
mens'_clothing  stylish  sneakers  accessories 
november 2014 by jerryking
Menswear Around the World - WSJ
Aug. 22, 2014 | WSJ | By TODD PLUMMER.

An authentic energy infuses the images he shoots for his four-year-old street-style blog, Men in This Town, which he has turned into a book of the same name, available Sept. 2, 2014.
mens'_clothing  fashion  stylish  Sydney  London  New_York_City  Milan  Tokyo  blogs 
august 2014 by jerryking
What kind of scent should a man wear? - The Globe and Mail
RUSSELL SMITH
Special to The Globe and Mail
Published Wednesday, Jul. 30 2014

Summery scents tend to be lighter – that is, they stick more to the citrusy-soapy side than to the musk-spice-leather side. Your body’s natural odour will be stronger in hot weather, so you need to lighten up the scent. Scent will smell stronger in humid weather, too.

Here’s a new one that I really like: Michael Kors For Men, which will be on sale at The Bay in September. It’s actually constructed of spicy and woody scents, including barely perceptible patchouli and a little musk, that are generally thought to be earthy or wintery, but I have found it to be light enough – and noticeably soapy – for warm-weather wear.
Russell_Smith  fragrances  mens'_clothing  personal_care_products  personal_grooming  smell 
august 2014 by jerryking
A Toronto shop's tailor-made legacy, after 106 years
Jul. 04 2014 | The Globe and Mail | MARCUS GEE
The Globe and Mail
Published Friday,
legacies  bespoke  mens'_clothing  Marcus_Gee  suits 
july 2014 by jerryking
Les Copains Ties and more
Ties & Neckwar by Les Copains

truly elegant stuff.==a keeper!!
neckties  mens'_clothing 
july 2014 by jerryking
Statement Socks | Dapper Discourse
keep in mind these few rules-of-thumb for sock buying and care:

-First and foremost: Don’t buy cotton. Either buy wool or a synthetic blend. Cotton is moisture-absorbant, which dampens the socks and increases the rate of wear (Not to mention the inevitable foot odor).

-Wool has the advantage of being moisture-wicking. Also, throw the notion of wool being a “winter-only” material out the window, it’s dated thinking. Modern advances in the textile industry provides us with high-quality, fine/ultrafine wool that won’t choke your feet. Itchy wool is just cheap wool.

-Despite popular belief, socks aren’t actually one size fits all. They are typically 1 or 2 sizes larger than your shoe size. Poor fit will wreck your socks so mind the fit. Additionally, poor shoe fit can actually ruin your socks quicker as well.

-Always hang dry your nicer socks. The heat from the dryer will wreck the elastic and will unravel the knit. For ultimate longevity, hand wash them as well.
socks  accessories  mens'_clothing  blogs  stylish  one-size-fits-all  high-quality 
july 2014 by jerryking
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