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Cava: Novelty hasn’t worn at convivial Toronto midtown tapas spot - The Globe and Mail
CHRIS NUTTALL-SMITH
The Globe and Mail
Published Friday, Aug. 14, 2015

The “supergilda” pincho here is magnificent, a stacked composition of tomato-smeared toast and of olives wrapped in anchovies, with a whole fat sardine fillet that’s rich and clean and luxuriously fatty, that’s been seared to honeyed sweetness and then pickled overnight.

Cava’s famed fried eggplant, too, delivers as much of a flavour jolt as it ever has. The flesh is deep fried to crisp-sweet and oozy, set in a dish of super-tart tomatillo salsa. It arrives under shavings of dried tuna belly that dance and wave in the rising steam and taste like maritime jerky. The dish isn’t Spanish, exactly: It is also Japanese izakaya food, with assists from South America. Cava is Spanish at heart, but it has always played hard against type.

We had fried, creamy-centred artichokes one night that took me to Rome, except in Rome I didn’t eat fried artichokes anywhere near as good as this. Cava’s ceviche (hello, Peru!) is a masterwork of judgment. The balance, the seasoning, the textures are all exactly right.

And as always, there are simple pleasures to please any crowd: There’s Iberico ham at the bar, and avocado toasts with herring roe, and the signature, twice-cooked papas fritas that come in a paper cone, with a dish of properly smoky paprika aioli.

The soup special recently was a bowl of genius: It was a bisque, made from lobster and white fish, taut with sweet-acid tension and the tastes of anise and herbs and deep-sea minerality. It was French, not Spanish, but you’d be a fool to complain.
restaurants  restaurant_reviews  Chris_Nuttall-Smith  midtown  Spanish  hams  pork  jamón_ibérico  Spain  cured_and_smoked  tapas  Toronto 
august 2015 by jerryking
Dindigul Thalappakattu Biriyani: The best biryani in Toronto - The Globe and Mail
CHRIS NUTTALL-SMITH
The Globe and Mail
Published Friday, Mar. 20 2015

He makes biryani, the one-pot, special-occasions dish of layered, slow-cooked rice, spice and meat that is often called Indian cooking’s highest achievement. Even today, he still gets would-be customers who come looking for samosas or roti and leave in a huff.
restaurants  restaurant_reviews  Toronto  cuisine  Chris_Nuttall-Smith  one-pot  Indians  rice 
march 2015 by jerryking
Sea Witch Fish & Chips and Farmer’s Daughter: The right way and wrong way to draw inspiration for a new restaurant - The Globe and Mail
CHRIS NUTTALL-SMITH
The Globe and Mail
Published Friday, Oct. 03 2014

Sea Witch Fish & Chips (A Cheap Eats pick, where you can dine well for under $30, before alcohol, tax and tip): 636 St. Clair Ave. W (at Wychwood Avenue), 647-349-4824, seawitchfc.com
Chris_Nuttall-Smith  restaurants  restaurant_reviews  fish 
october 2014 by jerryking
The Financial District's chic, flashy Drake One Fifty simply disappoints when it comes to food - The Globe and Mail
CHRIS NUTTALL-SMITH
The Globe and Mail
Published Friday, Jan. 10 2014,

I nearly had to look around when I tried it, to make sure that I hadn’t been transported to another, better, place.

I hadn’t. The music was still throbbing (do not even dream of quiet conversation here on a busy evening), the feel of the place still more down-market mega chain than trailblazing arts and culture hub. I admire the moxy it took to build a room this wild, and can only imagine the pots of money it must have cost. But I wouldn’t send friends here on their own dime. I can’t in good conscience send you.
Chris_Nuttall-Smith  restaurants  restaurant_reviews  Bay_Street  disappointment 
september 2014 by jerryking
Ivan Reitman’s latest role is worth checking out: maître d’ at his new restaurant Montecito - The Globe and Mail
CHRIS NUTTALL-SMITH
The Globe and Mail
Published Friday, Sep. 05 2014

Name Montecito
Location 299 Adelaide Street West
City Toronto
Province Ontario
Phone 416-599-0299
Website montecitorestaurant.ca
Chris_Nuttall-Smith  restaurant_reviews  restaurants  Entertainment_District  brunch 
september 2014 by jerryking
For a good time (and lots of food), head to Fat Pasha - The Globe and Mail
CHRIS NUTTALL-SMITH
The Globe and Mail
Published Friday, Jun. 27 2014,

Name Fat Pasha
Location 414 Dupont Street
City Toronto
Province Ontario
Phone 647-340-6142
Website fatpasha.com
Price Sharing plates $9 to $34.
Atmosphere: Warm and convivial, with a rare all-ages mix. Gorgeous back patio with communal tables and a koi pond.
Drinks on Offer: Short, well chosen beer and wine lists. Superb cocktails, especially the tomato water and fennel “tomaccio.” Excellent araks.
Best Bets: The daily salatim platter, a hummus, latkas, roast cauliflower, schmaltz fried rice, ice cream sandwich, stuffed doughnuts.
Vegetarian Friendly? Yes
Chris_Nuttall-Smith  restaurants  restaurant_reviews 
july 2014 by jerryking
Haitian cuisine gets its due at a pair of Toronto restaurants - The Globe and Mail
CHRIS NUTTALL-SMITH
The Globe and Mail
Published Friday, Jun. 06 2014, 6:03 PM EDT
Last updated Friday, Jun. 06 2014, 6:04
restaurants  restaurant_reviews  Haitian  Chris_Nuttall-Smith 
june 2014 by jerryking
Airport dining goes upscale: An eater’s guide to Pearson’s restaurant boom - The Globe and Mail
Mar. 07 2014| The Globe and Mail |CHRIS NUTTALL-SMITH

Where to eat and drink at Pearson International Airport

Terminal 1 Departures

Domestic:

Boccone Trattoria Veloce. Order a pizza, a plate of the terrific spaghetti and meatballs, a salad, fried calamari and a few glasses of wine.

International:

Boccone Pronto, for a pizza
Fetta, for an aged white cheddar and fig jam sandwich, a salad and a cocktail
Vinifera for a glass of interesting wine (the Kotsifali-Mandilaria is incredible).

Terminal 3 departures

Domestic and international:

Corso, for excellent pizza.

International only:

Vinifera, for a drink.
Acer, for noodles, pickled vegetables, some sushi and the grilled eel.
restaurants  restaurant_reviews  Chris_Nuttall-Smith  airports  Pearson_International  YYZ  travel  Toronto  retailers 
march 2014 by jerryking
Finally: A relaxed, welcoming izakaya and yakitori joint in Toronto
Nov. 29 2013 | The Globe and Mail| CHRIS NUTTALL-SMITH.

yakitori cooking – charcoal-grilled meat, fish and vegetable skewers; the term “kushiyaki” is also used – and izakaya food, the cheap and cheerful Japanese pub grub
Japanese  restaurants  restaurant_reviews  Chris_Nuttall-Smith  Cabbagetown  grilling 
december 2013 by jerryking
Where to eat – and drink – in Parkdale now: Geraldine’s a gem from a bygone era - The Globe and Mail
Oct. 18 2013 | G&M | CHRIS NUTTALL-SMITH.

Name Geraldine
Location 1564 Queen Street West (at Sorauren Avenue)
City Toronto
Phone 647-352-8815
Website geraldinetoronto.com
Price Smallish plates: $5 to $18
Atmosphere Casual: A fancy, pre-prohibition Parkdale saloon, complete with piano player and period-appropriate facial hair. Friendly, welcoming service.
Drinks on Offer Full Bar,: Serious cocktails made very well, good spirits (including absinthe), wine and beers.
Additional Info Best Bets: Seafood tower, duck sandwich, soft-boiled egg with caviar, fries, mignardises. Menu changes often. Cash only for now
restaurants  Toronto  Parkdale  Chris_Nuttall-Smith  vintage  drinks  liquor  restaurant_reviews  Absinthe 
november 2013 by jerryking
Leslieville (finally) gets bona fide destination dining
Sep. 27 2013 | The Globe and Mail |CHRIS NUTTALL-SMITH

Name Bero
Location 889 Queen Street East
City Toronto
Province Ontario
Phone 416-477-3393
Website bero-restaurant.com
Price Four courses, $56; seven courses, $84
Atmosphere Mid-range: White linens, good crystal, a little bit of barnboard – Leslieville at its elegant best. Warm, sometimes over-earnest service.
Drinks on Offer Beer in Bottles, Cocktails, Wine List,: Excellent cocktails, a few beers, a short, well-chosen wine list.
Additional Info Four- and seven-course tasting menus only.
restaurants  restaurant_reviews  Chris_Nuttall-Smith  Leslieville 
october 2013 by jerryking
The Chase: Moneyed Toronto’s hottest reservation earns the 3-star buzz -
Oct. 04 2013 | The Globe and Mail | CHRIS NUTTALL-SMITH.

Name: The Chase
Location: 10 Temperance Street (at Yonge Street)
Phone: 647-348-7000
Website thechasetoronto.com
Cuisine Canadiana, American
Atmosphere Fine Dining: An elegant, comfortable and energetic penthouse room with a killer view. Superb service.
Drinks on Offer Full Bar,: A long, decent, fairly priced wine list with a few good picks for wine geeks and just enough whale-bait Burgs and Cabs. A basic martini will cost you $18.
Additional Info Best bets: Mozzarella, crab and gnocchi, pearl platter, whole chicken, veal and shrimp, scallops, peas and corn, angel cake. Menu changes frequently.
restaurants  restaurant_reviews  Toronto  Chris_Nuttall-Smith  Bay_Street  Yonge_Street 
october 2013 by jerryking
Playa Cabana: Mediocre Mexican falls short of promises - The Globe and Mail
CHRIS NUTTALL-SMITH
The Globe and Mail
Published
Friday, May. 31 2013

One evening I watched a man in a Sysco uniform push two hand trucks of boxed oxtail, frozen octopus and other groceries through Playa Cabana’s Junction dining room. Sysco is a Houston-based foodservice distributor, the world’s largest. It is the restaurant-supply equivalent to Walmart, approximately, the last place a principled kitchen goes for local, sustainable, organic, artisanal groceries.
Mexican  restaurant_reviews  restaurants  Chris_Nuttall-Smith  Toronto  foodservice  Junction 
june 2013 by jerryking
At reinvented Splendido, the fine dining is only fine
Apr. 26 2013| The Globe and Mail | by CHRIS NUTTALL-SMITH.

Name Splendido
88 Harbord Street
Toronto, Ontario, Phone 416-929-7788.

Best bets: Smoked oyster, foie gras, any of the pastas, pork shoulder soup, veal chop, “The Perfect Egg.” Menu changes frequently; NB: Four course prix fixe for $65, full brunch for $35.
restaurant_reviews  Toronto  restaurants  brunch  Chris_Nuttall-Smith 
may 2013 by jerryking
Porzia: A Toronto restaurant that should be one of the greats
Mar. 30 2013 | The Globe and Mail | CHRIS NUTTALL-SMITH.

Porzia, 1314 Queen Street West, Toronto. Phone 647-342-5776
Website porzia.ca (Italian)
Chris_Nuttall-Smith  restaurant_reviews  restaurants  Toronto  Italian 
march 2013 by jerryking
Patria: Spanish for the fly crowd
Jan. 12 2013 | The Globe and Mail | CHRIS NUTTALL-SMITH.
Name: Patria
Location 478 King Street West (at Spadina Avenue)
City Toronto
Phone 416-276-8875
Website Patriatoronto.com
Additional Info Best bets: Pan con tomate, seafood croquetas, olives, sliced ham, oxtail peppers, patatas bravas, gambas, chickpea stew, paella, coffee ice cream with olives.
Chris_Nuttall-Smith  restaurant_reviews  restaurants  Toronto  Spanish  hams  King_Street  King-Spadina 
january 2013 by jerryking
Toronto’s Farmhouse Tavern: pretense-free, but inconsistent - The Globe and Mail
Jul. 21 2012 | The Globe and Mail | CHRIS NUTTALL-SMITH.

Name Farmhouse Tavern
Location 1627 Dupont St., Toronto
Chris_Nuttall-Smith  Toronto  restaurant_reviews  restaurants 
july 2012 by jerryking
Veggie Burgers of Note Around Manhattan - NYC - Reviews - NYTimes.com
By LIGAYA MISHAN
Published: March 22, 2011
Here are a few veggie burgers of note around Manhattan, in approximate descending order of preference. ...
restaurant_reviews  New_York_City  hamburgers  vegetarian 
march 2011 by jerryking
Pam's Caribbean Cuisine
NOW Magazine

Pam's Caribbean Cuisine
912 Bloor W at Ossington
416-533-3588
restaurant_reviews  restaurants  Guyanese  Toronto  curries  Ossington 
december 2010 by jerryking
Restaurant review: La Palette 2 - The Globe and Mail
Joanne Kates
From Saturday's Globe and Mail
Published Monday, Sep. 20, 2010 11:54AM EDT
Last updated Wednesday, Sep. 22, 2010
Joanne_Kates  restaurants  Toronto  restaurant_reviews  Queen_Street 
september 2010 by jerryking
Restaurant review: Enoteca Sociale
Jul. 03, 2010 | The Globe and Mail | Chris Johns

From Saturday's Globe and Mail Published on Friday,
restaurant_reviews  Toronto  Italian 
august 2010 by jerryking
Cannes's Gastronomic Glitz - WSJ.com
MAY 6, 2010 | Wall Street Journal | By LANIE GOODMAN. A tour of
the city's flourishing restaurant scene, along famed La Croisette and
beyond
France  restaurants  restaurant_reviews  travel 
may 2010 by jerryking
Restaurant review: Highway 61 - The Globe and Mail
Nov. 28, 2009 | Globe & Mail | Joanne Kates. Offers recipes for ribs and reviews Highway 6, 1620 Bayview Ave., Toronto
416-489-7427, www.highway61.ca , $60 for dinner for two with beer, tax and tip
restaurant_reviews  Joanne_Kates  ribs  recipes  BBQ 
may 2010 by jerryking
Hot pot boils down to delicious vlaue for money
April 3, 2010 | Globe & Mail | Joanne Kates. Hot Pot on Dundas
442 Dundas St. W., Toronto
416-581-1661 $43 for dinner for two, including tax and tip
No liquor licence; cash only
Joanne_Kates  restaurants  restaurant_reviews  Toronto  Chinese 
april 2010 by jerryking
Sao Paulo chef Paulo Barroso de Barros offers his pick for the top 10 restaurants in the city - WSJ.com
MARCH 29, 2010 | Wall Street Journal | By ANDREW DOWNIE. Sao
Paulo chef Paulo Barroso de Barros offers his picks for the top 10
restaurants in the city.
restaurant_reviews  Brazil  tourism  travel  São_Paulo 
march 2010 by jerryking
Restaurant review: The Senator Diner
Jan. 30, 2010 | The Globe and Mail | by Joanne Kates. Wwho
reviews, The Senator Diner, 249 Victoria St., Toronto, 416-364-7517.
www.thesenator.com
Joanne_Kates  restaurant_reviews 
february 2010 by jerryking
The Many Menus of Mumbai
DECEMBER 18, 2009 | Wall Street Journal | By STAN SESSER
restaurants  restaurant_reviews  India  travel  Mumbai  Indians 
december 2009 by jerryking
Foodies' next frontier
Wednesday, Oct. 20, 2004 | The Globe and Mail | by BEN KING
Special to The Globe and Mail. U.K. chef Heston Blumenthal may not star
in his own TV show, but his Fat Duck restaurant near London is breaking
gastronomic rules, earning Michelin stars and drawing gourmands from far
and wide
gourmet  gourmands  restaurants  restauranteurs  restaurant_reviews  foodies 
november 2009 by jerryking
Restaurant review: Milagro
Oct. 17, 2009 | The Globe & Mail | Joanne Kates. Reviews
MILAGRO, 3187 Yonge St., Toronto, 416-487-2855,
www.milagrorestaurant.com, $100 for dinner for two with margaritas, tax
and tip
restaurant_reviews  Joanne_Kates  mexican  restaurants  Yonge_Street 
october 2009 by jerryking
Chicken little:
March 2006 | Report on Business Magazine pg. 79 | by Leanne
Delap. Profiles Toronto's Rosebud Restaurant where Chef Rodney Bowers,
executive chef and co-owner of the Rosebud, shows you how to prepare a
succulent Cornish game hen.
Leanne_Delap  recipes  poultry  chicken  restaurants  restaurant_reviews 
june 2009 by jerryking
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