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The Fashion Outlaw Dapper Dan
JUNE 3, 2017 | The New York Times | By BARRY MICHAEL COOPER.

Twenty-five years after luxury labels sued his Harlem
boutique out of existence, Gucci looks to him for inspiration......Things have come full circle. Litigation by luxury brands ran Dapper Dan’s Boutique out of business in the ’90s, and now here comes a major fashion house trying to grab the attention of a generation steeped in hip-hop by finding inspiration in a onetime fashion outlaw...... last week after Gucci unveiled a jacket that looked very much like one he designed nearly three decades ago for the Olympic sprinter Diane Dixon.

The fur-lined piece with balloon sleeves created by Mr. Day in the 1980s made use of the Louis Vuitton logo without the brand’s permission. The new Gucci jacket, designed by Gucci’s creative director, Alessandro Michele, remakes the Dapper Dan jacket, but with the interlocking double-G Gucci logo in place of the Louis Vuitton markings......Gucci [now] acknowledges its debt to the designer......In addition to Gucci’s recent salutation, the Museum of Modern Art plans to include Mr. Day’s work in its fall show “Items.” In an email, MoMA’s senior curator of architecture and design, Paola Antonelli, called Mr. Day a “trailblazer” who “showed even the guardians of the original brands the power of creative appropriation, the new life that an authentically ‘illicit’ use could inject into a stale logo, as well as the commercial potential of a stodgy monogram’s walk on the hip-hop side.”.....“What Dap did was take what those major fashion labels were doing and made them better,” said the rapper Darold Ferguson, Jr., who goes by the stage name ASAP Ferg and whose father, Darold Sr., worked at the boutique in the ’80s. “He taught them how to use their designs in a much more effective way. Dap curated hip-hop culture.”

Steve Stoute, the chief executive of the marketing firm Translation, said: “I think what Dap did, he actually taught an entire generation how to engage with luxury brands. Luxury brands, at that point, were not for us. They didn’t even have sizing for black people. So every time I walk into Louis Vuitton to buy a pair of sneakers, or buy a pair of pants in my size, I know they’re only doing it because of Dapper Dan.”....experiences with poverty growing up [crummy shoes] gave him an understanding of how clothes reflect social status.... the need to dress to impress is part of a generational mind-set for many black men who grew up in Harlem......Clothes designing sounds fascinating, but it’s hard work. Folks don’t realize that there are limitations in the body form. We’re humans: We have arms, legs, chest. The exciting part of designing clothes is that you can be really creative within the context of those limitations.”.......Samira Nasr, the fashion director for Elle magazine, likened Mr. Day’s work to that of the innovative hip-hop D.J.s of the era, such as Jason Mizell, a client of Mr. Day’s. Mr. Mizell, who died in 2002, created beats for Run-DMC under the name Jam Master Jay. “Sampling was taking existing music and slicing it to recreate new sounds for original lyrics,” Ms. Nasr wrote in an email. “Dap was sampling in a way. He was taking existing fabrications and breathing new life and beauty into them.”
litigation  luxury  brands  clothing_labels  Gucci  Harlem  stylish  mens'_clothing  African-Americans  New_York_City  sampling  streetwise  '80s  '90s  inspiration  hip_hop  fashion  outlaws  design  retailers  knockoffs  copycats  creative_appropriation  underground_economy  crack_cocaine 
june 2017 by jerryking
A Quiet Giant of Investing Weighs In on Trump
FEB. 6, 2017 | The New York Times | Andrew Ross Sorkin

In his letter, Mr. Klarman sets forth a countervailing view to the euphoria that has buoyed the stock market since Mr. Trump took office, describing “perilously high valuations.”

“Exuberant investors have focused on the potential benefits of stimulative tax cuts, while mostly ignoring the risks from America-first protectionism and the erection of new trade barriers,” he wrote.

“President Trump may be able to temporarily hold off the sweep of automation and globalization by cajoling companies to keep jobs at home, but bolstering inefficient and uncompetitive enterprises is likely to only temporarily stave off market forces,” he continued. “While they might be popular, the reason the U.S. long ago abandoned protectionist trade policies is because they not only don’t work, they actually leave society worse off.”

In particular, Mr. Klarman appears to believe that investors have become hypnotized by all the talk of pro-growth policies, without considering the full ramifications. He worries, for example, that Mr. Trump’s stimulus efforts “could prove quite inflationary, which would likely shock investors.”.....“The big picture for investors is this: Trump is high volatility, and investors generally abhor volatility and shun uncertainty,” he wrote. “Not only is Trump shockingly unpredictable, he’s apparently deliberately so; he says it’s part of his plan.”

While Mr. Klarman clearly is hoping for the best, he warned, “If things go wrong, we could find ourselves at the beginning of a lengthy decline in dollar hegemony, a rapid rise in interest rates and inflation, and global angst.”...In his recent letter, he explained for the first time his decision to say something publicly. “Despite my preference to stay out of the media,” he wrote, “I’ve taken the view that each of us can be bystanders, or we can be upstanders. I choose upstander.”....How Mr. Klarman wants investors to behave in the age of Trump remains an open question. But here’s a hint: At the top of his letter, he included three quotations. One was attributed to Thomas Jefferson: “In matters of style, swim with the current; in matters of principle, stand like a rock.”
Seth_Klarman  investors  hedge_funds  Donald_Trump  investing  ETFs  value_investing/investors  money_management  Andrew_Sorkin  countervailing  the_big_picture  nobystanders  Thomas_Jefferson  quotes  stylish  principles  uncompetitive 
february 2017 by jerryking
The Straightforward Style of the Polymathic B.J. Novak - The New York Times
By BEE SHAPIRODEC. 7, 2016
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stylish  mens'_clothing  accessories  celebrities 
january 2017 by jerryking
A Men’s Wear Store Made for Men - The New York Times
By JON CARAMANICA DEC. 28, 2016

Todd Snyder 25 Madison Square North, 917-242-3482; toddsnyder.com

The Look A salad bar of men’s clothing and lifestyle accessories, in a neighborhood that needs it badly. The clothes are crisp but conservative, not nearly as aspirational as the store would have you believe.

The Vibe The staff is friendly, conversational, sometimes exuberant, like the woman who rang me up while exulting over how much cooler this place is than her last job (which was at Vince, so I could understand her sense of relief).

The Cost The clothes alone are reasonably priced, but around every corner is a potential upsell: Walk in wanting a T-shirt, leave with a Rolex.
New_York_City  mens'_clothing  stylish  retailers 
january 2017 by jerryking
Monocle editor-in-chief Tyler Brûlé is a rare believer in print - The Globe and Mail
ERIC REGULY - EUROPEAN BUREAU CHIEF
LONDON — The Globe and Mail
Published Friday, Dec. 23, 2016

Wallpaper was Mr. Brule’s first media success story, even if it was, for him, a financial dud. ...Wallpaper, focused on fashion, design, travel and art and, as does Monocle today, highlighted top-quality products and services as opposed to merely “luxury” offerings in all their potential vulgarity. The magazine was launched in 1996 – “It ran out of money right away” – and Mr. Brûlé sold it to Time Warner (now Time Inc.) a year later. In 1998, Wallpaper started Winkreative, a brand design and strategy agency that, lately, designed the brand image of Toronto’s Union Pearson Express.....Across the street are two trim shops – Trunk Labs and Trunk Clothiers – that sell horrendously expensive travel and clothing items such as the Begg Arran scarf, apparently made from the wool of caviar-fed sheep; yours for €345 (almost $500 Canadian).

On the same street is the little, ship-shape Monocle Café...The Monocle Shop is around the corner. In nearby Paddington, Monocle is experimenting with Kioskafé, a news and coffee shop that sells 300 magazine titles and thousands of print-on-demand titles, including The Globe and Mail.

Mr. Brûlé says the collective revenue for the publishing, agency and retail spreads are about $50-million. “We’re disappointingly small,” he says.
Eric_Reguly  Tyler_Brûlé  Monocle  digital_media  cosmopolitan  stylish  print_journalism  magazines  journalism  entrepreneur  branding  niches  elitism  social_media 
december 2016 by jerryking
A Style Guide That’s Man’s Best Friend - WSJ
By NICK REMSEN
Sept. 7, 2016

From Amazon:
Men and Style reaches beyond standard “what to wear” advice: It is equal parts style guide and intriguing conversation about the masculine identity within the world of fashion. David Coggins explores the history of men’s style and learns from some of the most notable tastemakers in the industry and beyond. Its essays and interviews discuss the lessons men learned from their fathers, the mistakes they made as young men, and how they emerged to become better men. Some of the most dapper men in the world discuss bad mustaches, misguided cologne choices, and unfortunate prom tuxedos. All the men here have arrived at a place in the world and have a keen understanding about how they fit in it. Men and Style celebrates singular men who’ve lived well and can tell us about how they earned their worldview. They’re smart enough to absorb the wisdom that’s hidden in the world, and even smarter to wear that wisdom lightly.
stylish  books  mens'_clothing  taste-makers  masculinity  fashion  opinon_makers  worldviews 
september 2016 by jerryking
Most men can wear anything to work, so why would one choose to wear a suit? - The Globe and Mail
JEREMY FREED
Special to The Globe and Mail
Published Wednesday, May 11, 2016

For guys who still choose to wear a suit every day this isn’t a style statement, it’s a mix of strategy, philosophy and propriety.....“When you’re working for celebrities and representing them, I believe you should give them the respect of being a true professional,” he says. “How you dress and carry yourself is part of that.”....“I think there’s a sense of maturity and work ethic that is embodied by the clothes that you wear,” ....bespoke suits made by Lorenzo Cifonelli in Paris, Savile Row’s Chittleborough & Morgan, and Sr. Francesco at Toronto’s Leatherfoot Emporium. Buy the best you can afford and expects your suits to last at least a decade. As such, favour classic silhouettes in muted tones, nothing flashy or trendy, just masterful tailoring and superlative quality.
mens'_clothing  stylish 
may 2016 by jerryking
Power Dressing: Craig Robins, Dacra - FT.com
August 15, 2014 6:11 pm
Power Dressing: Craig Robins, Dacra
By Jim Shi
mens'_clothing  stylish  suits  accessories 
september 2015 by jerryking
Ways a Guy Can Liven Up a Middle-Aged Wardrobe - WSJ - WSJ
By TERI AGINS
Updated Oct. 30, 2014

men who want to look au courant must zero in on nuances like accessories—scarves, hats, sunglasses, watches and, most of all, shoes. Attention, mature men, the trimmings are there for you too!
mens'_clothing  stylish  sneakers  accessories 
november 2014 by jerryking
Vizio Eyewear_September 26, 2014
Lynn Henry 416.486.8474

1532 Bayview Ave.
eyeglasses  stylish 
september 2014 by jerryking
Menswear Around the World - WSJ
Aug. 22, 2014 | WSJ | By TODD PLUMMER.

An authentic energy infuses the images he shoots for his four-year-old street-style blog, Men in This Town, which he has turned into a book of the same name, available Sept. 2, 2014.
mens'_clothing  fashion  stylish  Sydney  London  New_York_City  Milan  Tokyo  blogs 
august 2014 by jerryking
Statement Socks | Dapper Discourse
keep in mind these few rules-of-thumb for sock buying and care:

-First and foremost: Don’t buy cotton. Either buy wool or a synthetic blend. Cotton is moisture-absorbant, which dampens the socks and increases the rate of wear (Not to mention the inevitable foot odor).

-Wool has the advantage of being moisture-wicking. Also, throw the notion of wool being a “winter-only” material out the window, it’s dated thinking. Modern advances in the textile industry provides us with high-quality, fine/ultrafine wool that won’t choke your feet. Itchy wool is just cheap wool.

-Despite popular belief, socks aren’t actually one size fits all. They are typically 1 or 2 sizes larger than your shoe size. Poor fit will wreck your socks so mind the fit. Additionally, poor shoe fit can actually ruin your socks quicker as well.

-Always hang dry your nicer socks. The heat from the dryer will wreck the elastic and will unravel the knit. For ultimate longevity, hand wash them as well.
socks  accessories  mens'_clothing  blogs  stylish  one-size-fits-all  high-quality 
july 2014 by jerryking
Is it okay for a man to wear ankle boots with a suit? - The Globe and Mail
RUSSELL SMITH
Special to The Globe and Mail
Published Wednesday, May. 14 2014
shoes  mens'_clothing  stylish  Russell_Smith 
may 2014 by jerryking
Blue-Lens Sunglasses for Men - WSJ.com
May 9, 2014 4:56 p.m. ET
Enlarge Image
F. Martin Ramin/The Wall Street Journal
stylish  eyeglasses 
may 2014 by jerryking
Why Madonna’s gym is heating up Toronto - The Globe and Mail
KELLI KORDUCKI

The Globe and Mail

Published Friday, Mar. 07 2014,
gyms  fitness  exercise  niches  Toronto  urban  stylish  upscale 
march 2014 by jerryking
The New World of Men's Shoes - WSJ.com
Dec. 13, 2013 | WSJ| By John Ortved.

which pairs does a guy now need to own? Mr. Jennings's list of essentials includes wingtip brogues, cap-toed lace-ups, slip-on loafers and any style in cordovan-hued leather, which coordinates well with blacks, blues and browns. A monk-strap shoe, he added, while not essential, can be a smart addition.....Some also consider a new popular category—the fashion sneaker—to be an essential. High-end fashion brands like Lanvin, Balmain and Saint Laurent are finding an ever-growing market for their versions, which start around $500 and go up to four figures. "It used to be 'Sex and the City,' women and the Manolo Blahnik. Now it's men spending $1,000 on sneakers," said Matthew Chevallard, the 27-year-old co-founder of Del Toro, a contemporary shoe brand he founded in 2005
shoes  mens'_clothing  stylish  sneakers  cleaning  maintenance 
december 2013 by jerryking
The New Style Influencers Are Digital - WSJ.com
September 10, 2013 | WSJ | ByELIZABETH HOLMES.

Brands Court Stars With Active Audiences to Try Turning Followers Into Shoppers
brands  WoM  influence  Word-of-mouth  fashion  apparel  bloggers  digital_influencers  stylish 
september 2013 by jerryking
Mastering the Mismatch - WSJ.com
November 16, 2012 | WSJ |By DARRELL HARTMAN.
Mastering the Mismatch
Get ready to add 'spezzato'—the art of contrasting jackets and trousers—to your sartorial dictionary.
stylish  mens'_clothing  mismatches 
november 2012 by jerryking
Legendary Biltmore Hats to return, owner says
May 17, 2010 | National Post | Adam McDowell.

Supplies straw pork pie hats
hats  Toronto  mens'_clothing  stylish 
june 2012 by jerryking
Brim with confidence
June 15, 2012| FT | By Eric Musgrave
mens'_clothing  hats  fashion  stylish 
june 2012 by jerryking
Skin of a lion
JUNE 2012 | REPORT ON BUSINESS Magazine pg. 59 | Christina Christoforou.
personal_grooming  personal_care_products  fragrances  stylish 
may 2012 by jerryking
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