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jerryking : tapas   3

Cava: Novelty hasn’t worn at convivial Toronto midtown tapas spot - The Globe and Mail
CHRIS NUTTALL-SMITH
The Globe and Mail
Published Friday, Aug. 14, 2015

The “supergilda” pincho here is magnificent, a stacked composition of tomato-smeared toast and of olives wrapped in anchovies, with a whole fat sardine fillet that’s rich and clean and luxuriously fatty, that’s been seared to honeyed sweetness and then pickled overnight.

Cava’s famed fried eggplant, too, delivers as much of a flavour jolt as it ever has. The flesh is deep fried to crisp-sweet and oozy, set in a dish of super-tart tomatillo salsa. It arrives under shavings of dried tuna belly that dance and wave in the rising steam and taste like maritime jerky. The dish isn’t Spanish, exactly: It is also Japanese izakaya food, with assists from South America. Cava is Spanish at heart, but it has always played hard against type.

We had fried, creamy-centred artichokes one night that took me to Rome, except in Rome I didn’t eat fried artichokes anywhere near as good as this. Cava’s ceviche (hello, Peru!) is a masterwork of judgment. The balance, the seasoning, the textures are all exactly right.

And as always, there are simple pleasures to please any crowd: There’s Iberico ham at the bar, and avocado toasts with herring roe, and the signature, twice-cooked papas fritas that come in a paper cone, with a dish of properly smoky paprika aioli.

The soup special recently was a bowl of genius: It was a bisque, made from lobster and white fish, taut with sweet-acid tension and the tastes of anise and herbs and deep-sea minerality. It was French, not Spanish, but you’d be a fool to complain.
restaurants  restaurant_reviews  Chris_Nuttall-Smith  midtown  Spanish  hams  pork  jamón_ibérico  Spain  cured_and_smoked  tapas  Toronto 
august 2015 by jerryking
Tapas Tonight
AUGUST|SEPTEMBER 2010 | Home By Design | by Kim A. Fuqua.
Spanish  tapas  recipes  hams  ribs  filetype:pdf  media:document 
august 2010 by jerryking

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