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robertogreco : jonathangold   14

@cmonstah: EULOGY FOR JONATHAN GOLD  (a cut-up poem taken...
[poem links to the reviews the lines were taken from, so click though for that]

(a cut-up poem taken from his restaurant reviews)
(Photo by Javier Cabral @theglutster)

You may belong to L.A.’s great brotherhood of taco eaters
huddled around trucks late at night.
You munch still-muddy radishes to sweeten your breath,
but the stink of onions and garlic and cilantro and pig flesh
haunt you like a friendly ghost for days.
When we’re hungry, everything tastes good
Hunger is the best spice.

Pico was where I learned to eat
I saw my first punk-rock show on Pico
was shot at, fell in love, witnessed a knife fight,
took cello lessons, raised chickens, ate Oki Dogs and heard X, Ice Cube, and Willie Dixon perform
(though not together)
on Pico.

When this dining room was Tiny Naylor’s
my mom used to take us here for patty melts
when she didn’t feel flush enough
to spring for the onion rings across the street.
You could drive by the restaurant 300 times
without ever being tempted to stop.

You dump your Lexus off with the valet,
march down a breezeway.
It looks like the path to Thunder Mountain at Disneyland
You walk past a watery ditch lined with shattered rock whose cracks ooze green light.
You are led to an elevator in the rust-colored steel structure.

If you spend much time watching period Asian movies,
you will remember scenes of dark inns,
a crew of women tending an ancient grill,
prodding battered cookpots licked with yellow flame.
Their interiors resonate with dark wood and leather,
stone and iron, surfaces oozing water and flame.
Like the fifth level of any first-person shooter.
You never know quite whether to order a Dirty Martini
or to search the ground for a pulsing golden key.

It is time to go down into the dining room.
The minimalist soundtrack,
which sounds like the part
where the icebergs float by in a National Geographic film.
If you try to muscle your way toward a seat
that may not officially belong to you,
a stooped Chinese woman will cut you off at the knees.

A waitress will try to sell you a third or fourth martini.
The skull of Simon Le Bon splats on your forehead.
His brains trickle down your cheek like warm yolk.
I wave toward the canapé,
telling him that I had always considered truffle oil
to be the Heinz ketchup of the overbred.
Traditional dishes are more austere
than what used to be served,
possibly because of the seediness
radiating from the adult-video store next door .

Ghost-white Kobe beef grilled to a crisp-edged liquid succulence.
A foil-wrapped construction the size and girth of your forearm
drapes over a paper plate like a giant oozing sea cucumber.
The bare hint of sweaty afternoon sex in the scent of a juicy midsummer melon.
This is the first of many flowers you will see tonight.
You will recognize none of them.

What will happen is
that your date will suck up the last of his or her Jolly Roger Bowl
and carve your initials in the booth.
You hear the occasional lonely moan of a train whistle
from the tracks that run a few blocks south of here.
It seems exactly right.
As if you are eating your lunch
at some railroad-station restaurant
a hundred miles in the countryside.

And it is hard to avoid feeling that everything
is pretty all right in the world."
carolinamiranda  jonathangold  food  eulogies  writing  poems  poetry  2018 
july 2018 by robertogreco
This robot will tell you the best places to eat in L.A. - LA Times
"Hungry in Los Angeles with no clue where to eat? If you’re reading this, you’re probably familiar with the feeling.

Well, readers, meet Goldbot, your personal L.A. food concierge who also happens to be the robot twin of our acclaimed food critic Jonathan Gold. Ask him where to eat on Facebook Messenger, and he’ll serve up a recommendation just for you.

For those of you who follow our food critic religiously, you’ll know that we launched Goldbot in December. But at the time, he could only recommend places to eat from the annual 101 Best Restaurants list.

Our little Goldbot has since grown up and has gotten a lot smarter. After some training with the “belly of Los Angeles” himself, he can now recommend any place Jonathan Gold has reviewed in the past two years. That’s more than 300 restaurants!

He’s also easier to talk to. Chat with Goldbot on Facebook Messenger now!

Or keep reading to see what’s new (and what’s improved):"
food  restaurants  losangeles  bots  jonathangold  2017 
may 2017 by robertogreco
Dinner, Disrupted - The New York Times
"The tech-boom economy also infects everyone inside and outside of it with both dreams of striking it rich and fears of getting priced out of town. That’s why chefs don’t just open that one restaurant they’ve always dreamed about. They invent catchy new restaurant “concepts” and borrow mountains of money to create dining rooms that end up with no human touch and food that looks remarkably similar to Instagram photographs of dishes created by trendsetters like Mr. Kinch and Mr. Patterson.

“The concern,” Ms. Borden told me, “is that when the economy slows, who is going to survive? We’re already seeing quicker openings and closings because restaurants open with so much debt” — hundreds of thousands to a million dollars or more, from construction and months of astronomical rent before anyone sells a single $17 grilled-octopus appetizer — “that if you’re not full from Day 1, it’s really hard to stay open.”

The net effect is an ever-more frantic pursuit of eye-catching innovation and, as everyone trades in whispers about a cooling venture-capital market, a mounting fear that a restaurant apocalypse is nigh. As Mr. Patterson explained, “The food has never been better and the business climate has never been worse and so we are speeding toward a cliff.”

One delicious irony, for Californians of a certain age, is the inversion of an old joke about Northern Californians hating the superficial glitz of Los Angeles and Los Angelenos never thinking much about Northern California. This made sense for the mid-to-late 20th century, when the entertainment and defense industries secured Southern California’s place at the center of West Coast economic power. Now Los Angeles is where San Franciscans move when they can’t afford Oakland. Every young artist and musician I meet in San Francisco tells me that he or she wants to move south for cheap rent and a better creative scene.

And while San Francisco restaurant culture is driven by Michelin stars, Los Angeles isn’t even included in the Michelin guide. Sure, Los Angeles has expensive restaurants, but its biggest food celebrities are Jonathan Gold, a critic famous for supporting affordable eateries, and Roy Choi, king of the food trucks.

Sang Yoon, the chef and owner of Lukshon in Culver City, sees it as a difference between hyper-glorification of the chef and the farm in Northern California and, in Los Angeles, celebration of middle-class immigrant culture. “Half the restaurants I go to, I don’t know who the chef is! It’s not so personality-driven,” he said. “In L.A., we can celebrate a cuisine and not rouge it up.”

Mr. Choi explained it to me like this: “All these mom-and-pop restaurants that really are California cuisine and that have been here for 30 years cooking for their own community are now filled with patrons they’ve never seen before because of social media and instead of becoming angry or skeptical, they’ve embraced it — that’s the soul of a cook, you never discriminate against the people eating your food nor do you judge them, you are so happy they have arrived. And their food is getting even better.”

In yet another sweet twist, the pop-cultural reach of Mr. Choi and Mr. Gold has Los Angelenos teaching San Franciscans left out of the gold rush how to find fellow travelers. Last week, my friend Wen Shen recommended an affordable Vietnamese place called Yummy Yummy in the unpretentious Inner Sunset neighborhood. A wall-mounted video monitor played scenes of daily life in Vietnam, where I have never been. I felt as if I had come home, mostly because, race and ethnicity aside, Yummy Yummy’s clientele appeared to be blessedly middle class. I also liked it when our waiter saw me fumbling with a rice-paper wrap for the lemongrass shrimp and said, in the most common of California languages, that I should roll it up “just like a burrito.”"
food  california  losangeles  sanfrancisco  2016  money  economics  losgatos  sangyoon  chefs  jonathangold  oakland  socal  norcal  power  labor  inequality  roychoi 
august 2016 by robertogreco
L.A. now has oodles of noodles -
"Ramen is still the rage in L.A., where no matter what your pick in regional or preparation style, they're serving it your way somewhere in the Southland. Here's a top 10 list."
ramen  food  losangeles  restaurants  jonathangold 
february 2013 by robertogreco
10 Best Food Neighborhoods from Jonathan Gold's 99 Essential L.A. Restaurants - Cities - GOOD
"Each year Jonathan Gold treks through the greater Los Angeles county in search of the perfect dumpling, ceviche, or curry on behalf of his fellow Angelenos. The result is a kind of foodie gospel that residents (and visitors) reference when they need a culinary awakening, or just a good huarache to tell their friends about. But the best thing about his list may be that it gives you a point of entry to the otherwise vast, sprawling land mass that is Los Angeles County. To that end, we've highlighted the neighborhoods where one could eat breakfast, lunch, and dinner according to Mr. Gold's recommendations (and a couple others because we like them). Bon appetit!"
losangeles  food  jonathangold  restaurants  neighborhoods 
november 2010 by robertogreco
Los Angeles Eat+Drink - Duck Duck Taco: CACAO MEXICATESSEN
"Cacao will always have its detractors. The tacos are more expensive than those you find on trucks (although there is a daily "happy hour,'' when you can get cheap street tacos, mole fries and mojado dogs), and don't really represent any particular regional tradition. Food is slow to come. The solace it offers is different from what you find at the elbow-in-the-salsa dining at rougher establishments — Cacao is a neighborhood restaurant in a fairly gentrified neighborhood.

But if suffering good coffee, folksy music and the bourgeois presence of duck is the price one has to pay for access to Cacao's chiles rellenos, unbreaded roast poblanos stuffed with cheese and sweet corn or squash blossoms with cod, sometimes sacrifices have to be made."
jonathangold  food  losangeles  eaglerock  restaurants  mexican 
january 2010 by robertogreco
The year in food: changing tastes -
"Culinary trends are fine. I'm as ready as the next food writer to proclaim pig's trotter the new pork belly, or to predict the ascendance of vadouvan, fingerling potatoes & violet liqueur. But in 2009, something truly new was going on that may fundamentally change the way we look at restaurants. But you had to look for it. It could be found in a barren parking lot in Rosemead, where 600 people shivered in the cold, glancing at their iPhones & awaiting the arrival of a food truck bearing Korean tacos & kimchi quesadillas. Kogi, whose chef came to the universe of food trucks after years leading the kitchens at the Beverly Hilton, broadcasts its location on Twitter, causing immense crowds to materialize in otherwise deserted locations, inspiring dozens of knockoff trucks...While nobody was paying attention, food quietly assumed the place in youth culture that used to be occupied by rock 'n' roll -- individual, fierce & intensely political, communal yet congenial to aesthetic extremes"
jonathangold  food  losangeles  trends  california  restaurants 
january 2010 by robertogreco
LA Weekly iPhone App: Your New Essential Guide to L.A., Download it Now for Free - Los Angeles Music - West Coast Sound
"It's Friday night and you drove out to Hollywood, found your secret parking spot, got in line and after an hour of waiting, realized that there's no way you and your friends will be getting inside the club. The night is still young, so what do you do? Fear not, dear reader, L.A. Weekly is here to help. We're excited to announce the launch of the L.A. Weekly iPhone app, the first app built for an alternative weekly paper. L.A. Weekly has always been your go-to guide for where to go, where to eat, and what to do. Now you can get all of our hot tips, newest places, best restaurants on your iPhone. For free (we love that word). The app features over 200 concert and event listings that you can sort by date, nearby and neighborhood, plus over 1000 easy-to-search restaurant listings, including recommendations from our Pulitzer Prize winning food critic Jonathan Gold."
losangeles  iphone  applications  laweekly  jonathangold  food  restaurants  events  music  ios 
october 2009 by robertogreco
Los Angeles Restaurants and Dining - Squid Ink - A Google Map of Jonathan Gold's 99 Essential LA Restaurants
"Thanks to reader @missfruitfly, who this afternoon tweeted the Google map she created of Jonathan Gold's "99 Essential L.A. Restaurants." Awesome. Twitter can be so much more than a 140 character communique of what you had for breakfast. Well, unless you're Mr. Gold. Who, by the way, can now be followed via Twitter @thejgold."
food  restaurants  losangeles  jonathangold  maps  mapping  offcampustrips  tcsnmy 
september 2009 by robertogreco

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